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Static timing a 1979 Midget

startech47

Jedi Knight
Offline
Just 4 years into my sons 1 year restoration and ready to fire her up and take her down the street.javascript:void(0)
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif

Postive stopped and degreed in the timing marks when assembling the engine. We have set the engine on the 10 degrees BTDC mark with number one on the compression stroke. Aligned the rotor with the number 1 contact.

The questions we have are:

1) What should the the relationship be between the magnetic pickup and the vane?

2) Is 10 degrees BTDC correct when static timing?

We will dynamically time with a light after she starts.

Thanks, Phil /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif
 
I would think that would be close enough to start, just keep the dizzy a bit loose so you can turn it a bit as it gets goining before you are able to use a timeing light. It is not really awfully critical just to run. Run right yep.
 
I did the same thing on my 77 midget. degreed the cam (i'm running a fast street cam from apt and a 2 row vernier cam gear) using positive stop method also. Stock Spec timing was 2 degrees ATDC on the '77, not sure about the '79.. but no way, car wouldn't run at spec anymore... She fired right up with static timing of 10 degrees BTDC. Engine RPM's had to be increased from the original spec of 800, to 950. She smoothed right out and idles nicely, although this still may change a little when I adjust the carb and do the final adjustment on the valves.

Advanced timing increases to 21 degrees at 2,000 rpm. right where she needs to be. She's now got decent power and nice acceleration.

Not sure what you mean about the relationship between the pickup and vane. Didn't worry about this with mine and didn't have any problems getting the motor to start.
 
Thanks for the advice. She's alive. Death to the ZS. Any carburetor you have to remove to adjust the float level. Long live SUs. Phil and John
 

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