TR2/3/3A Stater tube nut & olive.

[Crankshaft]

As I finish up the conversion to adjustable steering column, I have found the need to replace the brass nut and olive on the steering box. I have a new nut and two olives, (both split, one flat on one end, the other tapered on both ends). Am I guessing correctly to put the flat side to the steel portion of the fitting and the taper to the nut? Also, would there be any pros or cons to using some type of Locktite on the olive and/or nut?

 

[GerryL]

On my car, the olive was split and tapered on both ends. I would place the tapered side upwards to fit between the stater tube and the gear box. It
may not matter, but I would use the one which is tapered on both ends. The seal is created at the upper end, which under compression will form the seal.
Lock tite is not necessary.

 

[TR3driver]

I believe the originals were flat on one side. My experience has been that the modern ones with the double taper don't always fit well, the nut can bottom on the threads before the sleeve compresses enough to grip the tube firmly. The result is that the tube will turn later, during use.

I don't see any advantage to using Loctite; it will just make it harder to disassemble next time. Maybe that's not a disadvantage if you won't keep the car for long; but it seems like every time I assume that I'll never do something again, I find that it has to be redone in short order.

 

[mgedit]

Believe original olive was tapered on one end and flat on the other (as well as split). Think I ordered mine from TRF and was as original. Have read about issues with olives that are tapered on both ends (like regular plumbing ones). I was not sure which way around it went and when I asked before completing installation I found I had it backwards. So this is a picture of how NOT to do it. Should be flat to nut and taper to box. Cheers, Mike

 

[Crankshaft]

Thanks gents for the input.