• Hey Guest!
    British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!

    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
Tips
Tips

MGB Starting Problems

HildaBilda

Freshman Member
Country flag
Offline
I am new to the MG scene and my 1979 MGB GT is fighting me all the way to get up and running!!

The Story in this issue is:

- Car was running but lumpy and couldn’t change timing as distributor seized in housing.
- Got it out and saw it was a junk aftermarket piece so binned it and purchased a lovely refurbished 45D from Distributor Doctor.
- Swapped in an electronic ignition module. Popped it into car. Started up first time ran it up to temperature. Set timing - running sweet. All good.
- UNTIL - I simply disconnected timing light from coil and it died!!!! Would kot start again. Starter turning but no spark and now no ignition light on dash.
- Swapped out e-ignition module back to points & condensor. No change.
- No power to coil and no spark! Starter turns but seemingly getting nothing to coil and distributor. And no ignition light on dash.

Any help/ideas would be much appreciated. Teated all connections to starter relay, fuse box and coil. I am stumped for ideas.

What could have gone wrong?
 
Possible bad ignition switch?
 
If the oil light comes on but no ignition light I would say ign switch is ok.
If no lights at all ign switch will need testing with a volt metre.
Is it dynamo or alternator
 
There is no reason why disconnecting the timing light should stall the car. So, something must have happened simultaneously. Take a close look at the wiring where the timing light was connected. It's possible that the wire is broken just inside the insulation--this happened to me once--or possibly at the distributor connection. It's also possible that the coil is defective internally, or there is a bad connection. This is probably something simple, so don't start tearing everything apart until you check the simple things.

I suggest using a multimeter to check for voltages at all the important points with the ignition on. Also check the coil primary resistance (between the two low-voltage connection points, with nothing connected.) It should be 3-4 ohms. Wiggle the terminals when you do this, in case it might be intermittent.

In most LBCs, the ignition circuit is not fused; dunno about the 79 BGT. If it is fused, check that. It's really easy to short something, blow a fuse, and not realize it.
 
Back
Top