Starting Problems: Lock - Lube & Solenoid ?

[dklawson]

This question pertains to my Mini but is equally applicable to Spridgets... and early Triumphs for that matter. This is a minor service issue and I'm curious if Spridget owners have seen this and what they do about it.

My Mini did NOT behave this weekend. I took it to the grocery and for the first time in months someone stopped to ask me about it. Wouldn't you know it would choose that occasion to NOT start. The round-body pushbutton starter solenoid used on early cars like mine decided it was time to fail. I had to use a pair of pliers across the solenoid terminals to start the engine. This style of solenoid is used on both my Mini and my Triumph. In three years I've had three of these (aftermarket) pushbutton solenoids fail. Have you guys seen the same quality problems?

After putting a used (square body) solenoid on my car when I got it home I set out for more errands. This time, again while being watched by curious onlookers, the ignition switch decided to "hang" in the start position... causing my starter to continue to run with the engine running. Oh that's an awful sound.

On outside (door/boot) locks I'm used to putting powdered graphite in the barrel to free things up. I can't imagine you should do that on the ignition lock since there are switch components behind the barrel. What is the prevailing wisdom when and if these locks need lubing? WD-40? Light-weight engine oil? What will loosen things up without being conductive?

Like I said, these are minor problems and easy to work around. I'm just curious if you've seen quality issues with the pushbutton solenoids and what you lube an ignition lock with.

 

[spritenut]

Quality went out the window when Lucas starting having things made in India. If it comes in a green box, send it back or throw it out. It will fail in no time if it even works out of the box.

You can use graphite or thin oil on the ignition switch.
The contacts are behind the key. Just put a drop of oil on the key and work it. Or graphite.

 

[dklawson]

Thanks for the info. I've had the lock barrel out years ago when I re-keyed the car but I couldn't remember how isolated the contacts were.

I took the solenoid apart last night. There is an "E-clip" on the plunger shaft of the solenoid that has bounced around enough to become loose and fall off the shaft. That prevented the copper contacts from being forced together. This is exactly the same failure I had on the last round solenoid. The square one isn't "correct" for my car but you can drill the rivets out on those and replace them with machine screws to maintain the contacts. I'll run the square solenoid for a while regardless of authenticity.