Hi Guest!
Hey - did you know if you click on the title of a thread it will take you to the first unread post since you last visited that thread?
but were afraid to ask: 
STOP!! Never post your email address in open forums. Bots can "harvest" your email! If you must share your email use a Private Message or use the 
smilie in place of the real @
Pretty Please - add it to our Events forum(s) and add to the calendar! >> 
The hand break theory sounds intriguing. Though I’m unable to replicate that specific scenario, I’ve still potentially have a short somewhere (unless the information at the end of this post under POTENTIAL SUSPECT is the true culprit here).
I took some voltage measurements this evening with everything hooked up (except the starter cable - I’m tired of getting shocked!). In the following, S = solenoid, I = red/white ignition wire at the solenoid, C = coil wire at the solenoid:
key @ crank - S engages, I=11.8, C=12.1
key @ on – S stays engaged, I=8.7, C=12.1
key @ accessory – S stays engaged, I=5.5, C=12.1
key @ off – S stays engaged, I=6.0, C=12.1
So, “S,” stays engaged at every key setting after it’s been initially engaged by “I.” “C” always has ~12V running to it despite the key’s position, and, although it drops, “I” also shows voltage when it’s connected to S despite the key position. Through the key sequence, “S” never disengages. I disconnected “I” from “S” and “S” disengages.
Then I ran another test with “I” disconnected from “S” to test the starter switch independent of the solenoid:
Key @ crank - I=12.1, C=6.3
key @ on - I=11.8, C=6.3
key @ accessory - I=0, C=0
key @ off – I=0, C=0
So, the coil is getting charge somewhere even when the ignition wire is disengaged from the solenoid. I assume this should not be the case. Note that in this second sequence, “S” does not engage at all.
POTENTIAL SUSPECT
While referencing the diagrams and a catalog listing for a new distributor, I noticed there are two distributors (Moss Motors) for the 1500 Midget: a C.E.I. distributor that has a single lead from distributor to the coil and an Opus distributor that shows three wires connecting - via a junction box - the distributor to the coil (one wire) and ignition switch (two wires, one via a distributor resistor). My car has only one wire from the coil to the distributor, so I’ve assumed that I have the C.E.I. distributor.
30 minutes ago, however, I found a disconnected junction box coming out of the original ignition switch wire bundle with three wires connected to it. This looked suspicious, so upon closer examination of the wiring diagram, I found they match the colors of the THREE wires going into the distributor, connected via a similar junction box to three wires in the ignition switch bundle….like the 3-wire Opus distributor connection.
But, again, this three-wire junction box is not connected to anything in my current setup – only a single wire connects the distributor and coil. Given the rigged starter button installed by a PO (the replacement of which is the start of all this mess!!!), it wouldn’t surprise me if the PO at some point replaced the distributor (3-wire coil/switch connection) with the wrong one (1-wire coil connection) - one that would not work with my ignition switch, and that’s why he installed the starter switch bypass button in the first place.
Does that sound like a potential cause? If that gives anybody an “ah ha!,” I’ll flat-bed this thing to the import shop and let them replace the distributor and properly connect it, if necessary, or otherwise track down my wiring short.
I took some voltage measurements this evening with everything hooked up (except the starter cable - I’m tired of getting shocked!). In the following, S = solenoid, I = red/white ignition wire at the solenoid, C = coil wire at the solenoid:
key @ crank - S engages, I=11.8, C=12.1
key @ on – S stays engaged, I=8.7, C=12.1
key @ accessory – S stays engaged, I=5.5, C=12.1
key @ off – S stays engaged, I=6.0, C=12.1
So, “S,” stays engaged at every key setting after it’s been initially engaged by “I.” “C” always has ~12V running to it despite the key’s position, and, although it drops, “I” also shows voltage when it’s connected to S despite the key position. Through the key sequence, “S” never disengages. I disconnected “I” from “S” and “S” disengages.
Then I ran another test with “I” disconnected from “S” to test the starter switch independent of the solenoid:
Key @ crank - I=12.1, C=6.3
key @ on - I=11.8, C=6.3
key @ accessory - I=0, C=0
key @ off – I=0, C=0
So, the coil is getting charge somewhere even when the ignition wire is disengaged from the solenoid. I assume this should not be the case. Note that in this second sequence, “S” does not engage at all.
POTENTIAL SUSPECT
While referencing the diagrams and a catalog listing for a new distributor, I noticed there are two distributors (Moss Motors) for the 1500 Midget: a C.E.I. distributor that has a single lead from distributor to the coil and an Opus distributor that shows three wires connecting - via a junction box - the distributor to the coil (one wire) and ignition switch (two wires, one via a distributor resistor). My car has only one wire from the coil to the distributor, so I’ve assumed that I have the C.E.I. distributor.
30 minutes ago, however, I found a disconnected junction box coming out of the original ignition switch wire bundle with three wires connected to it. This looked suspicious, so upon closer examination of the wiring diagram, I found they match the colors of the THREE wires going into the distributor, connected via a similar junction box to three wires in the ignition switch bundle….like the 3-wire Opus distributor connection.
But, again, this three-wire junction box is not connected to anything in my current setup – only a single wire connects the distributor and coil. Given the rigged starter button installed by a PO (the replacement of which is the start of all this mess!!!), it wouldn’t surprise me if the PO at some point replaced the distributor (3-wire coil/switch connection) with the wrong one (1-wire coil connection) - one that would not work with my ignition switch, and that’s why he installed the starter switch bypass button in the first place.
Does that sound like a potential cause? If that gives anybody an “ah ha!,” I’ll flat-bed this thing to the import shop and let them replace the distributor and properly connect it, if necessary, or otherwise track down my wiring short.
