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Starter recomendations

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philknight

Jedi Hopeful
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After having starting problems I've replaced the battery, checked the ground and put a jumper wire from the battery to the terminal on the starter to no avail. Same symptom, slow crank or no crank. You could fry eggs on the starter though. In checking on starters at TRF and Vickybrit they both offer rebuilt Lucas and new after market gear reduction starters. Any recomendations or advise on replacement? Phil
 
Not claiming to know a lot about TR6 starters. Maybe check the brushes on drive and commutator ends of your starter first for wear especially if they have never been replaced.
 
Check if you have a good ground between the block and the frame. On a TR3A it's located between the front plate that holds the motor mounts and it goes over to the frame under the horn on the left side in front of the distributor. You can test this by connecting any heavy wire you may have handy, like an old battery cable between the block anywhere and to any bolt that you find on the frame.
 
Harry, Your getting way to technical with me, I'm a parts changer, not a mechanic. There's a big difference. BTW, after reading many of your posts I never noticed that your fetis is dong some serious shifting. Future Formula one driver? Oh forgot, they have the buttons on the wheel to shift. Very cool. Phil
 
Phil, if your original starter is indeed DOA, then consider the aftermarket high-torque starter. I have one on mine and it is one of the best conversions that I have made. It will kick the engine over with a lot more umph (from tri-umph) and you won't believe the difference. Not that difficult to install and a lot smaller than the OE starter.
So much torque, that maybe that is why I chipped a ring gear tooth. (I really doubt that. Consider that the ring gear was 33 years old and got a lot of abuse, from the PO.)

My vote is high torque. Shop around. Prices vary.


Bill
 
Don, My ground goes in series from The Neg. terminal to the body and then to the motor. the conection at the battery couldn't be better and I removed the connection at the motor, took some sand paper to the surfaces and reinstalled with no effect. I presume the starter gets ground by bolting to the motor so I think I have a good ground.
 
I'm sorry you may need a better larger ground wire as Don suggested. If the better ground proves not to help follow the link below to the Moss site item 29 for the TR6 starter and you will see where the brush assembly's are located. Simply put these are parts that are changeable within the starter. The brush is simply a carbon square block with a wire attached to it with a spring pushing the little carbon block up against the commutator (small end of the internal motor with a bunch of grooves in it) and drive end of the solenoid and starter motor. When the brushes (carbon blocks) become worn down the starter will hang and not spin or will spin real slooowww. There is usually a groove along the width of the brush (carbon block) and if worn to the groove or the groove is gone the brush needs to be replaced. If you do find the brush to be worn and needing replacement place a straight edge on the commutator to see if it is worn (not flat) as well. If the commutator is not flat and true you will need to have the commutator turned down which can be done at any reputable electric motor repair shop. If you feel uncomfortable performing any repair you can just bring the starter to an electric motor repair shop and let them evaluate it. Rebuild is cheaper than buying a new one but like I said I don't know much about the TR6 starter. They may just need to be completely replaced when they go I'm not sure.

Yeah, that baby must be getting pretty tired by now I'm pretty close to giving it a rest. Good Luck!

https://mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=32910#29
 
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