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An update on my starter saga.
I measured just about every possible point-to-point on my original starter (the one with the broken nose), and compared to my replacement starter. Exactly the same. Even the amount the pinion gear screws/thrusts out to engage. Only difference is that the replacement doesn't have those two weld spots that the original has. (see previous starter thread)
Also measured distance from face of ring gear to face of bellhousing. One inch exactly. There is no discernible difference (to me) in how the original starter would mesh, and how the replacement starter would mesh, with the ring gear.
If the starter thrusts its full possible distance, it meshes with the ring gear all the way to the base of the teeth. You can see the "wear" at the base of the teeth on the original starter.
Adding a shim will pull the pinion back about an eighth of an inch, but there's enough thrust distance to still allow the ring gear to fully mesh and press right on the base of the pinion gear teeth.
Still can't for the life of me figure out why that pinion gear housing "nose" broke off.
Or what adding the shim would really accomplish.
And I sure don't want to break another starter housing!
Puzzled in Connecticut. And antsy to get 'er done.
Tom
I measured just about every possible point-to-point on my original starter (the one with the broken nose), and compared to my replacement starter. Exactly the same. Even the amount the pinion gear screws/thrusts out to engage. Only difference is that the replacement doesn't have those two weld spots that the original has. (see previous starter thread)
Also measured distance from face of ring gear to face of bellhousing. One inch exactly. There is no discernible difference (to me) in how the original starter would mesh, and how the replacement starter would mesh, with the ring gear.
If the starter thrusts its full possible distance, it meshes with the ring gear all the way to the base of the teeth. You can see the "wear" at the base of the teeth on the original starter.
Adding a shim will pull the pinion back about an eighth of an inch, but there's enough thrust distance to still allow the ring gear to fully mesh and press right on the base of the pinion gear teeth.
Still can't for the life of me figure out why that pinion gear housing "nose" broke off.
Or what adding the shim would really accomplish.
And I sure don't want to break another starter housing!
Puzzled in Connecticut. And antsy to get 'er done.
Tom
Hey Guest!
smilie in place of the real @
Pretty Please - add it to our Events forum(s) and add to the calendar! >> 
