Starter for a 1275 - stock or gear reduction?

[tdskip]

Well, the loooong drawn out Bugeye restoration continues. Mainly just collecting bits right now.

I did fine a usable 1275 in decent, if used, condition but it didn't come with a starter.

Any suggestions / recommendations on stock vs a new gear reduction starter?

I have a gear reduction starter on the TR4/6 and love how they work, but not sure if it is overkill for a 1275.

Thanks!

 

[jlaird]

Starter is the same as a 1964 plymouth duster of some sort, I forgot. Some one step in here.

Available from most auto parts houses. About 40 bucks.

 

[tdskip]

Thanks Jack.

Looks like one of the Isuzu Trooper II starters is a bolt on as well. Anyone have the scoop on that as well?

Thanks!

 

[Jim_Gruber]

Here's what I've got in my Spridget's File

High Torque Starter

Isuzu Starter #16878, 17155 is preferred direct bolt-in replacement high torque gear
reduction style starter:

1989-90 Isuzu Amigo 2.6L

1989-94 Isuzu Amigo 2.3L

1988-89 Isuzu Impulse 2.3L

1985-89 Isuzu Impulse 2.0L Turbo

1988-89 Isuzu Pickup 2.6L

1986-94 Isuzu Pickup 2.3L

1988-90 Isuzu Trooper 2.6L

1986-87 Isuzu Trooper 2.3L

Be aware that there are two starters for the Trooper; #17155 and #16878. The 17155 is smaller and is a direct bolt in with no clearance issues. The problem is that it is no longer available over the counter. The one they sell over the counter is the 16878 and you may have to move the brake and clutch lines that are in the engine bay on the front of the passenger side foot well. Your best luck for finding a 17155 is the junkyard. My last trip they had one of each. For my track car I use the 16878 since my brake and clutch lines have already been re-routed. I've used it for 2 years and haven't had any ring gear engagement issues.

It is the Isuzu starter that will bolt directly up without any engine mods. The Isuzu part number is # 16878. This starter is from a four cylinder Isuzu used on various models from 1988 to 1994.

However, there's always a however, it will contact the passenger foot well and a little clearance with a BFH will be required. Another thing to take into consideration is the ring gear. The teeth on the ring gear are beveled to accept the drive gear coming from the rear - forward. The Isuzu stater operates from the front to the rear against the bevel on the ring gear. This doesn't cause a 'problem' but will cause increased wear on the ring gear.

Oh almost forgot, you will have to fabricate an extra wire to bridge the Isuzu starters solenoid and main + terminal.

The information that Gary posted is correct. That is the Advance Auto parts number for the starter. The computers indicate that this is a V6 Isuzu starter. The big hammer is needed however. The dent in the vertical wall on the front of the footwell only needs to be about two by two inches long and about 3/16 deep to clear the starter. I sure does start easy now.

 

[tdskip]

Thanks Jim!

 

[Pythias]

Or look here. No need to modify anything.

(https://hometown.aol.com/martingf/sprite.html)

 

[dklawson]

I thought the mounting holes of the Isuzu starter had to be elongated slightly to pick up the spacing of the mounting bolt holes on the A-series?

 

[Hap Waldrop]

Winners Circle gear reduction starert is really nice as well, it uses a stud mounted into the adapter plate for the bottom bolt, that a nice touch.

 

[PeterC]

I know lots of people use the GR starters, but just FYI, the drive is pushed into the ring gear from the non-chamfered side. The original drive was centrifugally "pulled" into the ring gear from the chamfered side. Apparently time and usage has discounted the importance of this engineering "detail" since it works, but... well.... it's just not roit.

Peter C

 

[tdskip]

Thanks for all the info guys!