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TR2/3/3A stainless steel rear spring pins for TR3

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J

jwolff

Jedi Hopeful
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Does anyone know who sells stainless steel rear spring locating pins, #12 on this diagram:
TRI-030.gif


Roger William's "How to Restore..." book recommends using them, but I haven't had any luck finding them. Or is this overkill?

Thanks in advance
 
Unless it was aircraft grade I would be concerned of it shearing.
'member, SS can be brittle
 
Just slather on a bunch of never-seez...

V057740_NG.jpg
 
Good point about the stainless being brittle and thanks for the advice on the never-seez. I'll just go with the standard ones and slather this on. thanks
 
Any decent FLAPS should have an equivalent product. I do suggest looking for the copper-based stuff though, it seems to work significantly better for me than the nickel or aluminum based. Eg https://fwd4.me/0iWo

It's also a good idea IMO to clean out the tube through the frame as best you can. I used a round brass brush from a shotgun cleaning kit, plus some PB Blaster (or Liquid Wrench, etc).
 
thanks Randall, I appreciate the advice. I'm guessing it would be wise to replace the pins and bushes while the body is off, right?
 
thanks Randall, I appreciate the advice. I'm guessing it would be wise to replace the pins and bushes while the body is off, right?
 
Bushes, yes. I reused the original pins, as they were in decent condition and I worry about the quality of new parts. No doubt they are easier to do with the body off, but I can't really comment since I've never had the body off.
 
somehow submitted that twice... reading the recommended removal process on the RevingtonTR site (thanks Number 6) makes this sound almost impossible, cutting the springs to remove the pins. I didn't plan on replacing the springs, do you think it would be okay to just leave the old pins and bushes?
 
Randall, hadn't seen your post before submitting... just replacing the bushes sounds like a good plan to me. I'll just use plenty of anti-seize. thanks again
 
I've been thinking of tackling this job myself over the winter. After reading the removal description on the Revington TR site, I'm thinking I'll probably leave the rear pins in situ. It sounds like it's a job that's only easily done if you have really good access to the frame such as with the body removed.

It seems that a lot of the parts that Roger Williams mentions in his book "How to Restore" are sourced from Revington TR. I purchased a lot of parts from them when I had my steering rebuilt. Nylon column bushes, steering box cover, upgraded idler arm, etc.. They worked out very well.
 
I haven't read the Revington description, but IMO it's not all that hard as long as the pins aren't badly stuck in the tubes. Last time around, I bought some hardened all-thread, "setup" washers and Grade 8 nuts from MMC, to suit the tapped holes in the head of the pin. Don't recall the size offhand, but maybe it was 5/16 NF. I used a bottoming tap (same thread) to clean out the holes first. The only other thing you need is an assortment of spacers that will fit over the pin head. I used an impact socket plus several short (like 1") sections of pipe.

It's a multi-step process, you start by installing just the socket and all-thread, then using the nut to pull the pin out until it contacts the socket. This is the hard part. Then take it apart, install another spacer and do it again. At some point the nut & all-thread will be showing signs of wear, so replace them. Lather, rinse & repeat until the pin falls out.
 
Also a good idea to disassemble, clean and inspect the spring leaves, IMO. This was not obvious before I took the spring apart:

DSCF0007_reduced.jpg


On TeriAnn's advice, I installed some UHMW poly tape between the leaves on reassembly. So far, I am very pleased with the results, there is a lot less stiffness and vibration from the rear even though I used 30 wt oil in the shocks and poly bushes at the rear of the springs.
 
Number_6 said:
...After reading the removal description on the Revington TR site, I'm thinking I'll probably leave the rear pins in situ. It sounds like it's a job that's only easily done if you have really good access to the frame such as with the body removed.
Click to expand...

Revington's removal description also mentions that "the spring cannot be slid off the bolt on TR2-3B with the body on the car". So if you want to change the bushings and/or springs, you're going to have to remove the pins...or the body. :hammer:
 
Thanks for the instructions on removal, I'll give it a try.

I hadn't planned on disassembling the springs, but guess I should while I have easy access. How difficult is it to reassemble the springs? Did you paint the leafs while apart? I'm sure I'll have more questions as I start. thanks again
 
Art,
I already have the body off of the frame so I figured now is the time to tackle this.
 
jwolff said:
How difficult is it to reassemble the springs?
Click to expand...
I wouldn't call it trivial, but it wasn't too hard either. You have to bend the clips and then remove the center bolt to disassemble them. For reassembly, I put all the leaves through the clips first, then stuck a longer bolt through the center hole, and clamped the assembly in the vise to compress the leaves. While it was clamped, I inserted the original bolt and installed the nut; then bent the clips back into place.

Here's a after picture, with the UHMW peeking out

TR3springwithUHMW.jpg
 
thanks for the instructions and photo... I'll let you know if I have any questions when I tackle it (working on the front suspension now, but this will be next)
 
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