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Squeeeeeeal like a pig!

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John_Mc

John_Mc

Jedi Knight
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Ever since I replaced my brake pads (and pistons) at the beginning of the year my brakes are prone to ear splitting squealing. Is there an effective solution for this? I understand there are some tape-on solutions or grease. What is the best way to go? Also, I noticed on the parts diagrams that there is a caliper centering shim (Moss part no. 582-080) which my car lacks. Does this play any role and is it otherwise necessary?
Thanks in advance, gents.
 
John-

My car had no centering shims but did not squeal.
I was reminded to order the shims for the front
suspension rebuild I am mid-process. I have them.

Maybe because I am a non-mechanic guy but I see no
purpose to those skinny shims at all. I installed
one and the other wheel I will leave it off as an
experiment.

I'll let you know in a wweek or so.

d
 
Hi John, sounds as though you didn't install the anti-squeal shims. They work 90% of the time.
 
Bill, are they the metal pieces that look like two
lollipops joined at the sticks? Kinda like a figure 8
where the caliper mounting bolts fit thru?

Or are squeal shims something else?

thanks, d

Beautiful day here on the island- wanna go fishin'?

BTW: Cajun music and me is real good buddys.
Native Colombian music is so close to Cajun you'd
swear they were the same. We listen to a live Colombia
native music band once a month.

Off topic- Last Saturday I took the Mako out for
5 hours of peaceful snook fishing. Spent $4.36 in fuel.
A friend took his 43 foot Hatteras out for a 34 mile round
trip looking for marlin. He spent $350 in diesel fuel - no fish.

d
 
I used the shims and the anti-squeal lube when I replaced the pads on the front wheels last month. No squeal at all except a very slight and short squeak, which only happens when I'm parking and turning the wheels while applying the brakes.

John - didn't you use the anti-squeal lube? It's usually in a small plastic packet supplied with the new pads (and shims).

Tom
 
I think I am laughing at myself here.

Ironic- I am discussing anti-squeal for brakes when
my car was so often broken down and non-functional,
I was able to drive a grand total of 67 miles
last year. It will be not that many miles for for
this year.

I have no idea if my new brakes squeal or not.
At this point, if the car starts, moves under it's
own power and more or less stops on demand- I will
be one happy pup!

........................................

Completely decompressed the coil spring this morning,
removed the safety tool and installed the new shock
absorber. And I lived to brag about it!! Bloodless
on all four coil springs.

Crypty is becoming quite literally a bucket of worn out,
old metric bolts sitting in the corner of my garage.

d
 
METRIC?!?! You gotta be joking (I hope).
 
Here 'n there, but the metric thing struck me as if he was USING 'em on the CryptCar rather than removing them...

...it ran a shudder down my spine. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smirk.gif
 
Yeah Doc-Metric.

When I first discovered my car wasn't exactly the
"Almost 100% restored to showroom condition" we
thought we bought and as things quickly began to
break down or fall off I replaced them.

I took the broken bolts or rusted bolts to the bolt
shop and duplicated them. Shop told me they were metric.
British car- metric bolts- made sense to me.

I replaced many DPO Pedro metric bolts with new metrics.
Remember DPO Pedro's "mechanic" worked at an auto junkyard.
Mostly metric auto parts in the junkyard.
Almost anything with a nut had a metric bolt stuck in it.
Those morons installed the fuel pump with metric bolts and
superglue.

My tranny mount bolts were metric for goodness sakes.

It was only after I found this forum did I find out there
should be NO METRIC bolts in my car. But I am still finding
some and changing them out to grade #8s.

d
 
hey Cuz, you MAY find a couple(four actually) metric bolts. The front caliper mounting bolts, were upgraded to Metric, later in the life of the 6, if I remember correctly, somewhere in mid 74. Other than that, all British,


A quick discourse on sound generation of the brake pads.

The squeal is caused by movement and vibration. The pads should be lubed with a good high temp grease anywhere the metal(not the braking material) of the pad comes in contact with the caliper and retaining pin. On the ends of the pad, and on the back of the pad where the pistons meet the back of the pad. A lot of companies DID go to a silencing shim(but the industry has pretty much gotten away with those now) that would absorb some of the minute movement of the pad metal against the piston and act as a damper. Also a good idea to put the high temp lube on the opening holes of the pads where the pins go through, so that the contact of the pin and pad backing plate are lubed.

The material of the pads of the first poste(squeal like a pig) may be contributing to the noise also. Most new pads come with a beveled edge on the top and forward facing edge of the pad. Reason why, is so that the brake dust has less of a chance of building up on the leading edges of the pads and rotors. Often in cool, humid climate(Pacific Northwest and Easte Coast) when you go to reverse a disc braked car and step on the brakes you may be met with an initial squeak, which is the cool brake dust being caught between the pad and rotor.

As for our "squeal like a pig" poster. If the pad is lubed(also Permatex, BG and a few other companies) made a brake pad lubricant, that may help to alleviate the noise. But I have found that "cheap" pads the friction material is such that some noise is almost always present.

So, lube the metal of the pad(try to lube the friction material if you have access to the BG(make sure you let the pad dry for at least a couple of hours before applying the brakes) bevel the leading edges(front and upper corners) of the pads, make sure you wheel bearings are tight. And you should have no more brake noise.
 
I always thought that brake squeel was an early safety feature -- indicats that your brakes have been successfully applied! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif
 
RonMacPherson said:
hey Cuz, you MAY find a couple(four actually) metric bolts. The front caliper mounting bolts, were upgraded to Metric, later in the life of the 6, if I remember correctly, somewhere in mid 74.
Click to expand...
Well, kind of. The holes in the calipers changed to a metric diameter, but the threads on the mounting bolts remained SAE. Triumph had special bolts made with metric shanks and SAE threads.

However, I believe the pipe fittings on the caliper also changed to metric. There was a short adapter pipe that did the conversion there.

There are a few other places with metric, too, like the switches in the gearbox cover for overdrive, backup lights, etc. Not sure about the TR6, but on a TR3 some of the instrument mounting studs are oddball metrics as well.
 
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