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sprite start up

VictorVictor

Freshman Member
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My 65 sprite is only used about once every two months. The current temperature where I live is in the mid-20's and every time it is fired up for the first time, it takes about 10 minutes of cranking the key for the motor to fully run. Any suggestions on how to maintain it so that it would be easier to start.
 
Sounds pretty hard on the starter. Does it start ok, then quit shortly after, or will it not start at all for 10 min? Have you tried starting fluid or a little (just a little) down the barrel of the carb?
 
Well, make sure the entire ignition system is up to snuff for a start. Check that you are getting full actuation of the chokes and the fast idle cam screw is adjusted correctly. My '72 hadn't been started since July, and it fired right up yesterday in 20 degree weather.
Jeff
 
this may sound stupid but is there fresh fuel in it as modern fuels do not like to be left in a tank without a stabilizer.
 
Starting fluid (ether) is rather hard on an engine. If you must squirt something into the carbs, try something like a windex bottle with a little regular gas in it and spray the mist into opened carbs. I find it will do the same as a squirt of ether, with more "normal" combustion!
 
ether will eat up alum pistons.
 
Good to know! I've used it for the past 6 months and sounds like I should stop. Think I've caused any damage yet?
 
Hard to tell, maybe some! Chronic use would certainly have shortened engine life to some degree!
 
What is your starting technique?

I had some similar problems initially with ncbugeye when I first got her, although 2 minutes rather than 10 minutes. I then realised what I was doing wasn't what the engine needed - I was too light on the gas.

I now pull the choke all the way out, and press the accelerator pedal all the way to the floor, then pull the starter. She starts first or second pull every time now.
 
Your technique of pulling the choke cable and pressing the gas pedal all the way down worked like a chram. It turned on in the first try.

Thanks everyone.
 
Well there you go.

Glad I could help. I'm not sure if I could explain the science of it, but then LBCs are not a science, thay are an art.

I think it may have something to do with the fact that the SU carb doesn't have a "choke" as such - it uses a displacement of the jet relative to the needle.
 
Roger on all the above.
 
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