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Spriget Factory Upgrades

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S

Super 7

Jedi Warrior
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I have been thinking about buying a Spriget for some reason. It sure isn't because I need one, but it is the first Sports Car I was ever in. I kind of like the looks of the big wheelwell MG's, like '72 or 73 I think? I'm not that fussy about the year though.

I would like to know when they started comming with front disc brakes though, if anyone knows. Also when they got a first gear synchro, and when they got the 1275.
Finally, is the 1275 the one to have?
 
I have a 1275 and I think it's the S#@t - The little A model engine is ridiculously overbuilt so that you really can't wear them out ,unless you really concentrate on tearing it up and I prefer the engine note over the 1500 - I know I'll catch some flack here, so remember, opinions are like ears - everybody's got one or two....

Sprite Mark 2 and Midget Mark 1 ( 1962 )are when they went to front disks - Sprite Mark 4 and Midget Mark 3 ( 1966) came with the 1275 cc engine

I think the 1500 with the modified Maina gearbox was the first to have 1st gear synchro - Mines a 67 and it's no synchro in 1st. Again bear in mind that I'm in no way as knowledgeable as most of the Sprite guys on the forum, having owned only this Sprite ( Plenty of other Triumphs in the past, both cars and bikes (chuckle) but only this one Sprite.)

One thing's for sure: they're fairly inexpensive to purchase, Easy to repair, there are a bunch of them in boneyards for parts, the new parts won't beggar you and, if you bring one back to high standards and maintain it it'll be dependable ( At least as dependable as any LBC can be) tough, and an absolute joy to drive (Note: this last characteristic seems to be common to all Bristish Motors!)

Dollar for dollar you'll have a hard time beating the bang-for-the-buck factor you'll get with a 1275 cc Sprite.

I see that you're a discerning chap by the fact you own a Super 7 - I look forward to having you in the ranks of the Spridget forum - In other words, go git it boy!!
 
Everything Bob just said is true. No 1st gear synchro until the rubber bumpered, 1500 Midgets, that had a Spitfire engine and trans.
There are a ton of performance oriented 1275 parts available, as well as the run of the mill stuff.
In another thread, one of the members is "upgrading" his 1500 Midget to 1275 status. A wise choice, in my opinion.
Jeff
 
Based on the (unscientific) research I did prior to purchasing my Sprite, the 1275 engine is the way to go. If you're patient, there are plenty of earlier Bugeye Sprites that have been "upgraded" to 1275 engine, rib-case transmission and front disc brakes. That's the route I went.
 
I have 2 1275s and a 1500 (at the moment). The 1275 is the better choice of engine, but the 1500 cars are newer and less rusty. The 1500 all-syncro trans is clunky and agricultural: the 1275 rib cage trans is direct and accurate (and the crash-1st gear is not a big deal).
A nice new-ish 1500 RB car (stripped of it's bumpers) and with a 1275 installed is probably the best overall.
One point: *neither* of these engines is that remarkable in my view (and that's OK)....it's really the *car* (chassis, steering, handling, etc) that's the fun part.
 
Thanks for the information

I'm having fun looking. On the rust isue, where should a person look first? I can't get in to the styling of the rubber cars, no offense to people who like them, I also don't think I'll convert one to chrome. I like to R & R parts, but not bodies too much.

Will a Midget cruise at 65 ok?

I like to Autocross, and no syncro first might be a bit of an issue there maybe.

In advertisements, I see what look like nice cars in the 3 to 4000 dollar range.

Will this buy a nice looking usable car that I can have fun with?

Paul
 
Look for rust in the floorpans, inner and outer sills( Rocker Panels) and critical areas like the spring mouting box back by the gas tank - Of course all these areas are critical scine the body shell as a unit (Hence the term "Unit Body" or "Unibody") generates it's own rigidity - compromised sills and florpans can be unpleasant indeed, but not really expensive or difficult to repair - I just finished my floorpan replacement with the help of some really good advice from some forum members - I'm not a great welder by anymeans but with a MIG welder and the correct replacement panels the repair offered no really nasty surprises..

Cruising at 65 - She's gonna be wound oout pretty tight and if your kingpins , shocks or front end bushings are weak or sloppy she'll get a little hectic on you at that speed.

The great thing is in a Spridget when you're going 55 mph it feels like 100....

I don't know about autocrossing - Never taken it up but plenty of members here do and can give you guidance - I do know that 2nd gear is still pretty low and pulls well where other heavier cars may not -

3 to 4 Grand should buy you a pretty nice example - When I bought mine ( Ten years ago) a Chow had been living in it and had eaten a lot of the interior - The foreigner who owned the car lot couldn't get it to run for me ( Probably because they had the battery hooked up negative ground and this was a positive ground car - probably sucking the gas from the carbs back to the tank - I got her for $800 and the body needed a little work,and the mechanicals were all excellent - but I drove it almost ten years before I decided to replace all the rot - Never had much of a problem - I guess I was too stupid to know that rusted floorpans were a serious hazard - I know better now.

But if you spend that much green you'll have lotsa fun -
 
www.rivergate5speed.com

here is one popular solution to the nonsynco first gear and cruising at 65. (uses a datsun 5 speed)
 
I can't get in to the styling of the rubber cars, no offense to people who like them, I also don't think I'll convert one to chrome. I like to R & R parts, but not bodies too much.

Super7:

The rubber bumper cars and the chrome-bumper ones are really the same in terms of styling, with only some very minor detail-differences. My '78 RB car (below) is presently sporting a '62 Sprite left-front fender and a '79 Midget right-front fender! The rubber bumpers come off in a few hours of easy work and adding chrome ones (if desired) is easy. I'm not much of a bodywork guy either, but deleting the safety bumpers is just a bunch of wrench-turning.

I have found the ribcage (1275) trans to be very easy to double-clutch into first (although the "A" motor pulls well in second gear anyway). In any event, except for the start, I have not seen too many autocross events (in this area) where returning to first gear was really needed (at least in a Spridget).

My 1500 car runs 4000 RPM at 60 MPH (with 50 series Sumitomo street tires). It'll make about 65 MPH at that RPM with the 60 series Kumho DOT-race tires. I'm running a stock 3.9 final drive. I occasionally co-drive an older 1275 race-car with a 3.7 final drive and 60 series tires. That car will pull 108 MPH at 6500 RPM, but I'm not sure how that works out at more moderate speeds.

The 1275 cars mostly used a very short 4.22 final drive which can be a real grind on the highway.

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I thought the majority of 1275's had 3.9 from the factory?
 
[ QUOTE ]
The 1500 all-syncro trans is clunky and agricultural

[/ QUOTE ]
I'm surprised to hear that, my Midget 1500 has by far the smoothest gear change I've ever encountered in a LBC.
A joy to 'stir'! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif
But then again, we all know we have unique and special cars that are none alike... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grouphug.gif
 
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