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Spraying Rustoleum Paint --how's that work?

Bruce_B

Jedi Warrior
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Has anybody sprayed Rustoleum STOPRUST Paint? (with a gun, not a spray can) If so how did it work/look?

If anyone can provide details of the prep performed ahead of time, was a primer used, how thinned...would be very useful.

I'm looking to repair any rust/body issues, light sand the entire car and then spray the Rustoleum?

Just an idea. I'd like to save the time/energy/expense of spraying primer, color, clear...etc.
 
I bought a gallon of an Ace brand Rustoleum knock off called "STOPSRUST."

I painted a small test spot under the bonnet and I can safely say that the paint is garbage.

However, my experiments with Rustoleum "Extra Protection Enamel" have been most pleasing indeed.
 
I would just go to the local auto pinat dealer and buy a good gallon of economical acrylic enamel for around 50 bucks or so. I have had good luck just spraying it over hand sanded paint, no primer or anything. It is slow drying but not near as slow as some oil based paint like rustoleum. I would use spray can primer over the repaired spots only. I've done 4 cars like that and never had any problem with them. The acrylic enamel is single stage, just spray about 3 good coats on it and one more with more thinner in it for shine and your done. I'm really starting to wish I had done that myself, but I got stuck on a particular color and had to have it.
 
Bugsy my '68 Sprite is looking quite well after getting 4 coats of Gloss Hunter Green rolled on to Hood , Fender, and Doors. It came pretty close to matching the BRG that was on the car. I have not wet sanded yet. Wanted to give it a week or so the harden some more before I started wet sanding but compared to waht I had before it looks fabulous even without wetsanding. Paint was applied with a foam high density roller and was cut initially 50/50 with mineral spirits for coats 1 & 2. I upped that to 75/25 paint/mineral spirits for coat 3 because I was not getting some coverage over areas that were primered over some Bondo. Final coat went to a 60/40 mixture as 75/25 I think set up too fast while the 50/50 mix went on well for initial base coating.

The trick is to come back 20-25 minutes after paint was first applied with an almost dry roller and in effect pop the air bubbles that the roller generates. When you first apply you'll see lots of air bubbles as the roller passes over that will dissipate and pop all by themselves as the paint drys. Tipping means to roll in opposite directions to smooth it all together and as paint gets tackier and tackier the air bubbles themselves get smaller and smaller. Need to find that fine line when to stop rolling and let it set up. Rolling after it gets too far along and paint will not self flatten.

I did find the 60/40 worked better as it is thicker on the vertical sides. i.e. side of fenders / doors as it does not run as easily. However even if it does run, tipping does fix that as well.

I'm happy with the results so far. Used less than 1/2 a quart of Rustoleum to paint hood, fenders, & doors 4 coats. I do not see a need to spray this paint. It goes on smooth with a roller, yes it could be smoother but I think most will wet sand out. In my case working in a one car garage with someone who is extremely allergic and non tolerant of my LBC obsession. working with roller method was tolerated. Only a few drops of paint made it onto the floor, I did not need to construct a tent, I did not need to use a respirator, where paint was applied it was controlled and I did not need to worry about paint going everywhere and being deposited on everything in the garage. Let's face it part of tolerance factor we need to overcome in being able to keep our LBC's is keeping the other half happy.

For under the hood, go ahead and spray. Too hard to get coverage with a brush and roller. Ever large areas like the hood came out surprisingly well without runs and minor roller marks. Look compared to what I started with faded BRG, Bondo, Grey Primer, Black Primer and rust on the hood it looks fabulous. Never win any beauty contests but at least I'm all the same color now.

Oh and BTW, total cost to date for paint, sandpaper, rollers, some Bondo. masking tape, about 10 hours of time for prer and paint and total of $38.00 in materials.

Will it last? I don't know, but I've had fun so far, learned more about paint and bodywork and I feel good driving Bugsy again. He's now a 15 footer. Closer than that and you can see where he needs A Pillars replaced and behind the rear wheels needs metal welded in. That will all come in time but in the meantime I can drive him and at least he's all the same color again.
 
Jim,

Thanks for the great write-up. Any pictures? One questions, did you wet sand after coats 1 & 2? If so what grit(s)?

Thanks
 
Bruce,

No wet sanding done to date. Need to get some buildup before you wet sand. I wanted to let paint get harder before wetsanding. Bugsy is back out of the garage now as "Spring Projects" are getting in the way of finishing. Finished results so far are pretty darn good just with roller and work on technique in applying paint. Paint when thinned will self flatten pretty well as it dries. Not perfect but tipping with roller will be needed as it dries and to smooth out and spread any runs around. This is a build up process remember with multiple coats to be effective. On things like side of hood I went to full strength paint for coverage.
 
Bruce,

No wet sanding done to date. Need to get some buildup before you wet sand. I wanted to let paint get harder before wetsanding. Bugsy is back out of the garage now as "Spring Projects" are getting in the way of finishing. Finished results so far are pretty darn good just with roller and work on technique in applying paint. Paint when thinned will self flatten pretty well as it dries. Not perfect but tipping with roller will be needed as it dries and to smooth out and spread any runs around. This is a build up process remember with multiple coats to be effective. On things like side of hood I went to full strength paint for coverage. Will sand with 600 and then 1500 before buffing.
 
Bruce,

I've just started experimenting with shooting Rustoleum. Keep in mind, I am new to spray-gun painting. I thinned the "clean metal primer" to 4:1 (4 parts primer, 1 part mineral spirits) and it covered the underside of the boot lid wonderfully with the HVLP touch-up gun (I think that's as inconspicuous as it gets!). I put on a second coat of primer within an hour and again everything turned out great. I plan to graduate from the touch-up gun to the full-sized HVLP gun this weekend and shoot the actual paint, teaching myself on the boot lid before moving on to the whole car.

The one downside so far: rustoleum takes a long time to dry... the paint might be a "one coat per night" kind of thing. If you're interested, I'll let you know how my weekend goes, and try to take some pictures. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif

For those who have used acrylic enamel before, what type of thinning ratios did you use for different coats?

Mark
 
Mark,

Definitely interested! Are you shooting on bare metal, or just sanded...maybe with some Bondo?

Good luck this weekend. Pictures would be great.

Thanks..
 
Thanks Bruce,

I'll be painting just a little bit of everything... bare metal, body filler, and some previous paint. Due to rust I took the body down to bare metal and cleaned it up with acid. The panels are in good shape and the battery tray is the only new metal required (a friend is coming over tomorrow to weld it in). There will be a minor amount of filler needed: at some point its chrome strips were removed and the holes filled in. The hood and doors are off the body and in excellent shape; I think its safe to sand the previous paint and shoot over it. During the car's last "half restoration" by a PO, the doors and hood were the only thing done right. Now if I could only figure out which holes should be holes and which ones should stay plugged. :smile:

Mark
 
I would have to agree, go get some cheap real automotive paint, I got a car in my shop now being made into a race car, someone rustoleumed this car about two years ago, looks like crap and it's so soft after a few years of being on, we can't trust it to paint over, so we'll have to strip the whole freaking car to get this crap off of it. Rustoleum thins with mineral spirits, which it about the weakest solvent there is. My advice, is don't paint a car with this stuff ever, regardless of the internet fairy tales you hear, you can go buy cheap "real" automotoive paint for just a little bit more. I could care less how some guy's car looks with this paint on it right after he has painted it, I want to see what it looks like 2 years down the road or even worse once you decide to use good paint later, how much more you will spend/work to get that crap off so you can put good paint on it. I know, I know, someone will come here to tell me how they did this to save a buck because they couldn't spend alot of money to do it right the first time, but you can spend just a little more and have a long term solution rather than a bandaid on a shotgun wound. You don't have to spend alot, you just have to spend smart.
 
Mark,

What acid did you prep with? I've just bought some Metal Prep from Eastwood, but would be interested in hearing the results of other products.

Best,
Duncan
 
Guys:

You can buy acrylic auto enamel for $35 a gallon. Even British Racing Green.
The place on the link below sells online, but it's near my relative's house (here in NJ), so I buy stuff from them when I'm in the area.

https://www.paintforcars.com/aep_britishgreen.html
 
aeronca65t said:
Guys:

You can buy acrylic auto enamel for $35 a gallon. Even British Racing Green.
The place on the link below sells online, but it's near my relative's house (here in NJ), so I buy stuff from them when I'm in the area.

https://www.paintforcars.com/aep_britishgreen.html


See there's a smart approach. Oh and I would recommend using the hardner, it make the paint harder of course, but I've also found it to make the paint have more gloss as well. It doesn't mention a reducer, what did you use Nial?
 
Everyone has different aspirations and lessons to learn.
 
If I may hijack this thread for a moment...

The appeal of the "rustoleum paint job" is not so much the price of the paint as it is the roll on technique.

For many of us, spraying is just not possible. I cannot spray in my attached garage with a pregnant wife and toddler on the other side of the door. And if I errect a tent to spray in the driveway, I will be given a big fat ugly citation.

So, the questions I have are this...

1) Could cheap auto enamel be rolled on if greatly reduced?

2) Is there really that great of a difference between Rustoleum acrylic enamel and this no-name brand "auto" acrylic enamel?

Perhaps this whole Rustoleum paint job was started as a viral internet marketing campaign by Rustoleum, but I have seen photos of cars with 5-7 year old Rustoleum paint jobs that still look way better than my car does now. This technique gets a lot of criticism from people who have not read/seen all of the information/evidence. It would be a lot easier to accept this critcism if it did not seem like those that critise just saw the word "Rustoleum" and started spitting their coffee all over their computer.

That being said, I am certain that I speak for everyone when I say that we all greatly respect the expertise and opinions of Hap, Shealey, Nial etc. It's just that some of us absolutely do not see spraying as an option.
 
Real dumb idea. Get everything ready and farm out the spraying.

Check with a local with a booth, I bet that would be cheep.
 
I don't know about the specific paint that Nial mentioned above but most automotive paint stores do sell less expensive brands. We have 2 industrial paint manufacturers here in OKC, Anchor Paints and Black & Puryear. I have used both their paints on underbodys and hidden interior parts and they work really well and are extremely durable at prices comparable to or less than Nial's. They use much stronger solvents than mineral spirits which tells me the paints are much tougher.

Mostly I have sprayed and you can't even use mineral spirits to clean up. It doesn't bead, curdle or anything. It just has no effect at all. I would always recommend using the catalyst in an automotive application. At least with these two, they can still be brushed when catalyzed although I have not tried a roller but don't see why it would not work. The down side might be that it will be harder to color sand after curing but you can polish it almost like lacquer and it will last a whole lot longer than any non-catalyzed paint.
 
Morris I agree with you. Spraying in my case is not an option. Same issues with allergic better half who tolerates my LBC hobby. Time will tell if this Rustoleum thing holds up but even if I get two years out of it I'm far ahead of where I was with multiple colors and rust on the car. It was really ugly. So far so good and I haven't wet sanded yet. Perhaps this weekend. I really started this as practice for redoing a Bugeye bonnet and to get the car almost all the same color. So far I'm more than happy with the results. If I am going to do a real quality total respray and spend $1,000 which was what I was quoted at minimum for a color change, engine compartment,and a quality paint job. That doesn't count body prep and welding work needed to replace a A Pillars and behind rear wheel wells on both side. I've accepted the fact that this car will continue to rust no matter what I do to prevent it. I can help stem the tide but it will continue to rust. I simply trying to slow down the process. It will never be a show car, it will never win trophies with mods that have been done to it. I will continue to enjoy driving my 40 year old car and taking pleasure in being able to be a member of the We Tight Club to keep this Sprite on the road and being driven often.

We all look to this hobby with different ideas in mind. We're all trying to get different levels of satisfaction. Mine is found mainly behind the wheel at 4,500 rpm, pedal to the floor, going through a favorite set of curves down the street from my house. Yes Rustoleum is not a long term solution but these cars were not designed to last 10 years not the 40 & 50 years we've got on them now. AS I said $38 in materials and about 10 hours of labor so far says a lot. I'll pass judgement on the Rustoleum thing 2-3 years down the road. Right now I'm happy with the results so far. I may regret it later on but right now it looks good.
 
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