• Hey Guest!
    British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
Tips
Tips

TR2/3/3A Sports Cars Illustrated TR3 road test

Share this page

NutmegCT

NutmegCT

Great Pumpkin
Bronze
Offline
For you history nuts, a road test of the 1957 TR3, from Sports Cars Illustrated, April 1957. Emphasis is on the disk brake system, with comparisons to drum brakes.

Google Drive download link:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5xnnKbPEWx5Z2h5V2JiTmF2Wkk/edit?usp=sharing

Tom
PS - I tried attaching this to the post, but got "Your 2.1M file exceeds the 976K limit". Let me know if you have problems getting the file.
 
Last edited:
Hi Tom,

I have to guess you still have your TR in the stable. Mine is just great!! Whats new with yours?

I tried opening the link but It will not allow?!?!?!?

Regards, Russ
 
Hi Russ - my TR is warm and cozy and dry. Won't get any exercise until the snow clears and the roads are salt free. How's the weather in your neck o' the woods?

Also - anyone who can't open the file I put on Google Drive, please let me know. I made it "available to all with the link".

Tom
 
Tom,

I couldn't open it either (error below) however I could download it and open it.

Scott

[h=1]This content cannot be displayed in a frame[/h]

To help protect the security of information you enter into this website, the publisher of this content does not allow it to be displayed in a frame.
 
Thanks Scott. That error may be a browser vs. Google issue. The important thing is that you could download it. Hope it's interesting.

Tom
 
Cool, Thanks, Tom. Interesting article; not just for the way they rave about the disc brakes. (Having owned a TR3 with front drums, I entirely agree.) A really interesting comment about how the OD switch works, which has been debated from time to time (and the consensus I believe was that it should work the other way around).

I've noticed that Google Drive will occasionally refuse to display larger files, not sure why. But as noted, just download it and Robert's your near relative.
 
"Robert's your near relative"
ROFLSmiley.gif
 
Tom,

It seems I'm more interested in knowing specs, performance data, etc. now than when I had my 1st TR3A (1960).

Back then I just loved driving it. BTW, I was a Jr. in HS when this article came out.

Thanks for the article.

mgf
 
What a great road test. The tester, Karl Ludvigsen, has also written wonderful books on Porsche and Corvette plus books on a ton of other automotive areas. A real "car guy".
 
Thanks for posting that, a very enjoyable read!
 
A classic review. Can someone explain why he claims that O/D top has a lower top speed that direct top? I actually think he is wrong, based on power curves I have seen. Especially with the aerodynamic benefit of the aero screen (which admittedly was not used in the test car), I am pretty sure max speed would be obtained with O/D engaged.

An interesting comment at the end about corners that had to be cut. I assume he refers to the fit of the hood and sidescreen at speed, the dzus fasteners needed to get under the bonnet, and the elbow room with the side screens in place. Having a TR2 in the tropics cures all of these, as the internal bonnet release preceded the dzus fasteners, and the hot weather means I haven't had need for the hood or side screens for almost 40 years. Of course, the 2 lacks the disc brakes that was the featured fitment in the article, but my wire wheels and Alfins are a fine fix for any fade issues given my tame driving style.

Dan
 
2long said:
A classic review. Can someone explain why he claims that O/D top has a lower top speed that direct top? I actually think he is wrong, based on power curves I have seen.
Click to expand...
I'm curious to see those power curves.

In the trim as tested, they only got up to 104-105. At that speed, in 4th direct (with 3.7 gears & factory bias ply tires), the engine is very close to peak power. Kick in the OD, and rpm drops back to about 4200, well off the power peak. Less power doesn't go as fast.

But with the car slicked up (aero screens, spats, tonneau, see Jabbeke speed run), certainly it would go fast enough to be well past the power peak (not to mention red line) in 4th direct and have more power in OD. That certainly doesn't make the article "wrong" in my opinion. It'll go even faster downhill with a tail wind :smile:

I owned an earlier TR3 with front drums for awhile, and didn't like them at all. They always pulled one way or the other, especially if you ran over a drop of water in the past half hour, and just never inspired confidence. By contrast, the discs stop straight every time, and are easier to modulate near the traction limit. They are also a lot harder to overheat, even compared to Alfin drums. I can out-stop most cars on the road today (using modern high performance tires, of course).
 
I can out-stop most cars on the road today (using modern high performance tires, of course).
Click to expand...

I'm no doubt falling into some cunningly laid trap by responding to this, but it's certainly my impression, with nothing fancier to compare with than a Jeep Wrangler, that modern cars, almost universally fitted all around with disc brakes and power-assisted by the car's computer's control, stop so much better than one could even have imagined fifty-five years ago. Happily my TR3 has thus far always (except for one cat racing to cross a highway) managed to stop when I needed it to, and I've always felt owner's pride in the TR3's early introduction of front disc brakes, but I remind myself how different braking is--compared to contemporary road cars--every time I take the Triumph on the road.
 
The thing is, braking really hasn't changed all that much. It still relies entirely on friction, both in the brakes and between the tires and the road. Sure, power brakes take less effort, but that's all they do. The friction limits remain the same. Rear discs are primarily to avoid overheating, but at least in my experience it's impossible to overheat the rear brakes on a TR3 (unless they are defective of course). ABS is useful if you're on a slick surface or have poor front/rear brake balance (or are unable to properly modulate the brakes); not so much on dry pavement with a skilled driver and well balanced brakes. Besides, there are a lot of cars on the road today that lack 4 wheel ABS. The 2012 Camry that I'm currently renting (and driving during the snow emergencies here) should have them, I think, but it doesn't act like it. The 98 Corolla that the wife used to have flat didn't have them at all.

The single biggest factor in stopping distance is the tires and, lets face it, almost no one asks about stopping distance when they select tires. They want tires that will last 60,000 miles, which means they are almost as hard as wood, and about as grippy. Lock up the brakes and it's like riding on skis.

At any rate, I do battle on Los Angeles area freeways almost every day. When the car in front of me locks up the tires, I don't even bother watching him (to see if I can stop in time), I start looking at the car behind me to see if I need to get out of his way. I know I can stop; but several times now, the car behind me couldn't.
 
Hi Randall:

The power curve I was referring to was from April 22, 1955 Autocar. I can't seem to attach a pdf of it to my post, but the graphs show the various configurations of the Jabekke car and the resulting power curves. With the O/D the top speed is substantially higher except in a full hood and windscreen configuration. Not bothering with the undershield or spats, simply swapping the factory aeroscreen for the windscreen would result in a lower frontal area by a 20% margin, and I'm fairly certain O/D would result in a substantially higher max than direct top.

Dan
 
Dan - you could make the graph(s) as big as possible on your screen, then do a PrintScreen and save it as a file (probably png or jpg). Then you could attach at least the graph to a post.

Tom
 
Back
Top