Hey - did you know if you click on the title of a thread it will take you to the first unread post since you last visited that thread?
but were afraid to ask: 
STOP!! Never post your email address in open forums. Bots can "harvest" your email! If you must share your email use a Private Message or use the 
smilie in place of the real @
Pretty Please - add it to our Events forum(s) and add to the calendar! >> 
I went to torque the head on my rebuilt engine. Ten of the eleven nuts were fine, the last one actually spun the bolt out of the head. Even when I was able to get everything tight the bolt actually wobbled. The engine is for an 1147cc from a Spitfire MK2. I suspect that I will need to pull the engine and have a helicoil insert done by a machine shop, but maybe there are other ways to fix this problem. So any suggestions?
-
Hi Guest!
If you appreciate British Car Forum and our 25 years of supporting British car enthusiasts with technical and anicdotal information, collected from our thousands of great members, please support us with a low-cost subscription. You can become a supporting member for less than the dues of most car clubs.
There are some perks with a member upgrade!**Upgrade Now**
(PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Spitfire Spitfire Headbolt Problem
- Thread starter JKB1957
- Start date
Share this page
Offline
Are you saying that the bolt just stripped right out of the threads in the block, or that the bolt broke?
I worry about some of those bolt holes that are so deep.
If the threads in the block are gone, I'd be curious how deep that bolt hole is with the head removed?
What I've been told that even a shallow hole may require a machine shop to be certain you're getting that helicoil in straight. Naturally, that bolt needs to have a precise alignment.
On my car I got lucky. A bolt broke, but it was very near the top of the block, and I removed it with an "easy out." You can imagine my relief.
Good luck on yours, and please give us more facts.
I worry about some of those bolt holes that are so deep.
If the threads in the block are gone, I'd be curious how deep that bolt hole is with the head removed?
What I've been told that even a shallow hole may require a machine shop to be certain you're getting that helicoil in straight. Naturally, that bolt needs to have a precise alignment.
On my car I got lucky. A bolt broke, but it was very near the top of the block, and I removed it with an "easy out." You can imagine my relief.
Good luck on yours, and please give us more facts.
DNK
Great Pumpkin
Offline
I don't think he broke one off. I think he was more curious if it would eventually break if he reused a bolt.
<span style="font-size: 23pt"> <span style="color: #CC0000">EDIT</span></span>
OOPS I just pulled a Paul 161 and answered this in the wrong thread somehow.This was suppose to be the answer to Kens 941 Rod Bolt question
Dang ,hate when that happens
<span style="font-size: 23pt"> <span style="color: #CC0000">EDIT</span></span>
OOPS I just pulled a Paul 161 and answered this in the wrong thread somehow.This was suppose to be the answer to Kens 941 Rod Bolt question
Dang ,hate when that happens
Offline
Let us know what you find out. If they goofed up, maybe a HeliCoil would work, but I wonder about the spacing around the stud. Wouldn't that leave a gap?
Did you have the block out and to a machine shop already?
What else did they do other than chase the threads? It makes me wonder if there has already been work in that stud boring.
Did you have the block out and to a machine shop already?
What else did they do other than chase the threads? It makes me wonder if there has already been work in that stud boring.
Bob Claffie
Jedi Knight
Offline
Something to think about when putting the engine back together. Back in the day racers used wheel nuts in place of the regular head nuts. The wheel nuts are a lot meatier and will take the torque much better. Bob