• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Spin-On Oil Filter Adaptor

Share this page

nevets

nevets

Jedi Knight
Country flag
Offline
The mounting instructions for a Moss spin-on oil filter adaptor call for Hylomar AF Sealant applied to the gasket and block mating surfaces. Is this necessary? And if so, is there an equivalent gasket sealer that is readily available at a local auto parts store? Also, I noticed that the Moss gasket is made from material thinner than the original, which is a little worrisome...maybe that is why Moss recommends using sealant? Thanks.
 
They should have Hylomar at your local auto store. You need a sealant that is oil resistant. Thickness of the gasket will not be an issue, but yes use sealant. The oil is under pressure and needs sealant to stop it leaking.
 
Jerry said:
They should have Hylomar at your local auto store. You need a sealant that is oil resistant. Thickness of the gasket will not be an issue, but yes use sealant. The oil is under pressure and needs sealant to stop it leaking.
Click to expand...
Thanks. Permatex seems to be a lot more available. Is there a Permatex equivalent?
 
You can't go wrong with Permatex #3 Aviation Form-A-Gasket. This is my BJ8's gearbox and O/D a few thousand miles after overhaul with #3 F-A-G on paper gaskets and the rear two sections, which specify 'no gasket.' And yes, I used it on spin-on adapters for my BN2 and BJ8. Just a thin smear is all that's needed, so no chance of losing a chunk (like with RTV).

Just be sure to get the adapter and gasket oriented properly; otherwise no oil pressure. IIRC there's no indication on the adapter (filtered oil returns via the center hole).
 

Attachments

  • GearboxOD.JPG
    GearboxOD.JPG
    717.5 KB · Views: 113
I have a large container of Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket, but #3 does not appear anywhere on the can.
 
You want #3 for this application:


I think the term 'non-hardening' is a bit of a misnomer; in my experience it dries to a flexible glaze. I have taken joints apart where I've used it, peeled the gasket off and, if I'm careful, felt I could put another thin coat on the gasket and re-use it in a pinch.

The (potential) 'knock' on RTV is that small gobs of it can break off; I do favor it on the head-facing cork valve cover gasket but I'm careful to only use a small bead--and let it 'skin'--and I've never seen it spread beyond the gasket (and I inspect the rocker valley when used). I happened to come across this today:

www.roadandtrack.com

New Data Suggests Subaru BRZ and Toyota GR86 Lose Oil Pressure In Right Turns on Track

Brian Armstrong, a Bay Area software engineer, tested a new BRZ and GR86 and presented his findings in a YouTube video.
www.roadandtrack.com www.roadandtrack.com

I've used Hylomar before, but it has changed hands over the years and I've never been sure if I'm using the right 'formulation'--there are a couple--and from what I've seen it stays pretty soft, even sticky. It was developed by Rolls-Royce aviation and the Brits are partial to it.
 
Bob, thanks for the helpful response.
I'm still chasing down the right sealant. The attached pic shows my two choices at this time: The Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket Part # 80017 labeling appears to be identical to the No. 3 product in all respects except that it does not have a No. 3 designation. The tube of Permashield states that it "Compares to Hylomar Universal Blue". If neither of these are acceptable, I'll have to order something online.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0345.jpg
    IMG_0345.jpg
    138 KB · Views: 122
Yeah, I've seen the 'unnumbered' F-A-G; not sure why Permatex isn't more specific (maybe they thought the numbering confused people).

Really, I think you're overthinking this; the orange stuff should be fine. They're machined surfaces, probably smooth enough to go gasket-less, with sealant, but a paper gasket with any decent sealant will work (you can use less 'goop'). I think when you torque down the adapter you'll see sealant--any one you use--get squeezed out the edges, indicating you've filled any tiny gaps.

Another thing to consider is a sealant on the threads of the screws. I like the teflon-based stuff, probably not necessary in this application but can't hurt.
 
I forgot to use a sealant and ended up with a substantial leak so, yes, use a sealant
 
The Moss instructions call for applying sealant to the "outer edge of both sides of the gasket, the edge of the sealing surface of the block, and the corresponding area of the adaptor". I'm confused by the word "edge"...I assume they mean apply sealant to all four surfaces: both sides of the gasket plus the mating surface of the block and corresponding area of the adaptor?
 
nevets said:
The Moss instructions call for applying sealant to the "outer edge of both sides of the gasket, the edge of the sealing surface of the block, and the corresponding area of the adaptor". I'm confused by the word "edge"...I assume they mean apply sealant to all four surfaces: both sides of the gasket plus the mating surface of the block and corresponding area of the adaptor?
Click to expand...
I think that Moss is trying to minimize the chances of getting sealant in the oil passages.
 
Has the anaerobic type gasket goo gone out of fashion? I would have thought it ideal for this job, although I have installed two of the Healey Factory kits with no sealant (over 20 years ago) and no problems arose.

Danny
 
Final thoughts... I figured out that the can of Permatex F-A-G is the same as the Number-3 stuff, so I used it (different part number based on the size of the can). I also used the Permatex thread sealer with PTFE for the bolts, though I'm not sure it will do anything given that the bolts are threaded into blind holes. And if any oil actually migrates into those threaded holes, then I think I've got bigger problems. Thanks for all the help.
 
Back
Top