Spin on filter mod for BT7

[bighealeysource]

Hey all,
I went to install the spin on filter adapter from Moss
Motors on my 61 BT7 and apparently when the engine was
rebuilt - not by me - someone must have used a gorilla to
tighten the bolts that hold the original filter assembly
on the block. I tried everything up to a 1/2 inch drive
socket and would not budge and since my adventures with
applying too much force usually end up with me breaking
the part I'm trying to take off, I left well enough alone.
Any suggestions on how to get the original off without
possible stripping the bolt/s or breaking them flat off ?
I had visions of both with my last attempt but didn't reach
for the big hammer to help ! Fairly accessible but not
a huge amount of room up there. For now I will stick with
the stock set up.
Thanks,
Mike

 

[tahoe healey]

PB Blaster applied for several days than an impact wrench or a breaker bar. You may try tightening motion first before you try loosening. Use a 6 sided socket wrench if you can to prevent rounding the corners of the bolt. If you have already rounded them use a vice grip. Vice grips have a rounded handle on one side so you can slide a 1/2 or 1/3 inch plumbing pipe on to get more leverage. You will then have to replace the bolts. There are now cheap electric impact wrenches at Kragen and other auto stores and Harbor Freight. This is a project well worth the effort.

 

[Dave Russell]

Hi Mike,
As you pointed out be very careful.

Some of the early filter adapters used 3/8-20 BSF bolts. I believe later engines used 3/8-24 bolts.

There are a couple of possibilities for something going wrong.
First - 3/8-20 bolts were forced into 3/8-24 holes either with or without retapping the holes.

2- Some other combination of mis-matched threads may have occurred. Also some adapters have a top & an inverted position only one of which gives proper adapter alignment.

This is a very critical location so proceed cautiously. If in any doubt get a professional machine shop to evaluate the situation.
D

 

[bighealeysource]

Thanks oh wise ones ! The Moss kit includes both fine and coarse thread
machine bolts to avoid using the wrong one. I'll see if I can use some of
stuff Tahoe Healey recommended and then proceed very carefully. As I mentioned
earlier, looks like it was all redone when engine rebuilt as all carries a
nice coat of Healey engine green so now idea if anything wrong was done.
Regards,
Mike

 

[Randy Forbes]

I'd say the odds are high that the correct bolts were used, though they may have Loctite on them too. Hope it's not the "red" variety.

To get really industious, and add insurance against breaking a fastener off flush with the block, you could grind/cut the heads off the bolts to remove the existing housing. At this point, heat could be applied to the remaining shank of the bolt and attempt removal with some Vise-Grips. That wouldn't be my first choice though...

 

[SMP]

Mike, Good advice from several experts. I also suggest taping the bolt heads rather sharply with a ball pein (peen) hammer. You don't want to POUND the tops but I've found that several sharp hits will often do the trick. Also, I would suggest that you DO NOT use a breaker bar as the name implies you might very well break off the bolt... I DO suggest using an impact wrench however, as (like my suggestion above) it will deliver the equivalent of sharp taps. Don't set the air pressure too high initially, but slowly push up the pressure.

All that said, Dave may have the best answer if you are in doubt.

Good luck!

Stephen

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

I used to apply large amounts of PB Blaster and then follwed up with a torch with lot's of heat to loosen frozen bolts/nuts. You may want to consider dry ice!! I had a wheel that I couldn't get off my Healey because it was so tight with tolerances and I would spend a lot of time trying to wiggle it off. I actually used to say a short "no flat tire prayer" for the left rear before leaving the house!!

One day my "to be wife" said I should try "dry ice" and out of desparation I went to the store and picked up some. I placed it inside the hub of the stuck on wheel and in less than a minute the wheel slid off!! It really worked!! She then told me that she expected the car to be painted within a couple of years and it was then that I realized that I found a "keeper". Sorry guys, she doesn't have any sisters!.
Patrick

 

[healeynut]

Mike -

I think these bolts have Allen heads on them, right? The trick is to get a high quality Allen wrench/socket and then put a nice long cheater pipe on the wrench or breaker bar (the cheater bar should be at least a foot and a half long - the longer the better) and just gradually put more force on it until it budges. This should do the trick.

Alan

 

[healeynut]

Patrick - the torch will melt the adaptor!

 

[Randy Forbes]

Mike -

I think these bolts have Allen heads on them, right?

...Alan

They would've been hex-head originally. Only wierdos <span style="font-style: italic">like me</span> change them out for Allen-head capscrews...

 

[bighealeysource]

Hey y'all,
Thanks for all the advice on these infamous bolts. The original bolts
have your typical head so will be using the 1/2 inch drive socket that
best fits to try to avoid rounding off the head. The adapter from Moss
has allen head bolts. My worse nightmare is breaking one of these off
so will try some of the suggestions - other than the torch as I for sure
would set the entire car on fire - and see if they loosen. If not, guess
I will continue to use the original filter insert and see if someone wants
to buy a never used adapter kit !!!!
Thanks,
Mike

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

Patrick - the torch will melt the adaptor!

I realize the heat would melt tha adapter...use dry ice sparingly.