Spin on adapter install specifics?

[Tinster]

I'm looking for some very specific, step by step,
instructions on how to install a spin on oil filter
adapter.

I am expecting Paul's unit to arrive late today or late tomorrow.
I want to do as much prep work as possible
so I might have the car for use this weekend since
fishing is out of the question.

Data:
1. My engine is filled with new 20-50 Castrol oil
2. The original oil filter outer housing is in place.

<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<,,

From you guys who have yourself installed one of these
adapters, I need info like: for example-

The car needs to be on jackstands with front wheels off?
remove the fuel pump and hoses?
Remove the distributer, cap and wires?
Remove the steering shaft?
Drain the crankcase?

I have a bit of free time on my hands and am hoping
to get everything gutted and prepped to install the unit.

<span style="color: #000099">Real important question: If I take the adapter over to
Western Auto
will ANY filter with similar threads work ok?</span>

I cannot believe I am so lame I was unable to change the oil
filter in my 1969 TR6. I buggered things up to a fare-thee-well
and flooded my gargae with old oil..

thanks,

d

 

[DougF]

The filter can be installed from above making jack stands optional. They can be used though for the installation of the filter. Wheels can stay on. I didn't remove anything to gain access.

Prep work would be to remove cannister adapter, cannister and filter. Remove the oring from the recessed groove in the block. Wipe everything clean.

Installation: install new large oring into the block after applying very light coating of grease.. Put a fairly liberal coating of grease on the small heavy oring that fits into the adapter housing, enough to hold the oring in place during handling. Installation of the housing is easiest without the filter attached. With the adapter bolt in position, work the adapter into the block groove where the large oring was positioned. You can tell when it is position when the adapter seats evenly in relation to the block and slides smoothly against the oring. Position the adapter to a location where there is enough clearance for the filter. Holding the adapter in position, tighten the bolt enough to snug the adapter to the oring. Install filter to check clearances. Once a proper position is acheved, tighten bolt.

Just any filter will not work. I only know the Fram filter #, but don't recommend it's use.

 

[Brosky]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]I have a bit of free time on my hands [/QUOTE]

This is the part of the movie where it starts to get dark and really scary..........

OK, here you go, from what I can see. You have my engine pictures to show what it looks like installed.

You should remove the old cannister and have that area clean and ready to go.

You need to get a Fram PH3600 or it's equivalent. If you can get NAPA Gold or Wix crossed over numbers, that's even better. For all intents and purposes, that is your starting point.

You do not have to drain the crankcase as this is all above it.

As I explained on the phone yesterday, when you hold the par tin your hands, you will see how it fits and what you have to remove to install it properly. Don't start tearing things apart that don't need to be removed and create more potential issues.

Get the part, study it, see what you MUST remove to fit it in place and install it. Keep it simple.

If you insist, you can jack the car up and put it on stands to be able to decide whether you will install from the top or bottom.

As I stated in the other thread, as of 8:57AM, your part is in transit from Toa Bajas, PR. It should arrive this afternoon.

 

[bobh]

Dale,

Do you have a cutting torch? Start by cutting th car in half at the firewall. Next cut the motor mounts and lay the engine on it's side with the cars down. Use an air happer or a small amount of plastic explosives to remove all material...

Actually the installation is quite easy. The most difficult step is getting the original oil filter canister out of the engine bay. It will not drop out the bottom, and doesn't easily come out from the top.

You will probably find it easier to work if the front wheels are elevated on ramps.

There will be oil in the canister. Have something under the car ready to catch the oil.

I removed the oil sender unit from the block. Yours probably has 2 wires, mine has 3. Mark the wires and the terminals on the sender. Also mark or note the orientation of the sender. The sender is somewhat fragile. You want to be careful not to tighten it too much when you reinstall. Marking the orientation will help insure you don't ry to over tighten.

The iol filter canister can be removed by bringing it out the top between the engine and the steering shaft. To do so requires that you flex the steering shaft slightly away from the engine to gain the necessary clearance. I did this with a piece 2X2 piece of wood about 2 feet long. Place the lowed end on a clear section of the engine block. The middle of the stick will rest against the steering shaft. The upper end of the dtick is the handle. Use this as a lever to slightly move the shaft. It doesn't have to move much and doesn't require much pressure. When you position the stick put it nead the middle of the shaft. That will be the most flexible area.

With a little pressure on the lever you should be able to get the canister out. It will drag against the steering shaft and the block.

If you can't get the shaft to flex enough then you may want to disconnect the shaft at the bottom so that youcan swing the shaft out of the way. I've removed the filter canister several times without having to disconnect the steering shaft.

I can't remember if the spin on adapter comes with a new gasket. If it does make sure you remove the old gasket before instaling the new one. The gasket I'm referring to looks like a large rubber band. It site in the groove in the block where the edge of the oil filter canister fits. Sometimes these can be a pain to remove. I use a dental pick and another similar tool. One to hold the gasket so that it doesn't move in the groove. The other to stick the gasket and move it toward the first tool so the gasket buldges out enough to grab and remove. Like so many small mechanical jobs this one is simplified by the use of 3 hands. However like most of these jobs there is no room for a 3rd hand. Don't worry, it can be done with a couple of trys.

When you install the adapter don't tighten the center bolt all the way. Screw on the oil filter then rotate the adapter enough so the filter doesn't interfere with the clutch slave cylinder. Then tighten the center bolt. Make sure the adapter is alighed properly with the block. You do not want to tighten the bolt if the face of the adapter is nt parallel with the mounting face on the block.

On my car I couldn't get the old style adapter to seal where the edge goes into the block. I bought the newer style adapter which has a floating center section. This is the center section that mates to the block. The floating center allows for variances in the blocks.

If you have trouble removing the center bolt that holds the original oil filter canister. Try a racheting wrench like the ones made by Gear Wrench. There is very little space in that area to swing a wrench. The Gear Wrench will stay on the bolt head and only requires a very short swing to engage the next tooth in the ratcheting mechanism.

Once you have everything tight. Reinstall the oil sender, hook up the wires and start the car. CHECK for LEAKS. If the adapter is not seated correctly you'll see oil sourting or leaking. Shut it down, loosed the adapter and seat it again.

After you're done you'll be set for life. Oil filter changes are a breeze. In fact you'll have to sit down with your wife and work out a schedule to take turns changing the filter. Yea it's that easy and fun!

A little tip on cleanup. Mineral spirits will clean up any oil you may spill during thr installation. Pour some on the oil. If the oil has soaked in the concrete use a brom to work the mineral spirits into the oil. The oil will disolve in the mineral spirits and evaporate with the spirits. You can also put mineral spirits in a spray bottle to spray your engine to remove grease and oil.

Good Luck.
BOBH

I was only kidding about the torch.

 

[Andrew Mace]

...I was only kidding about the torch.

Yeah, but what about the plastic explosives?

 

[tdskip]

I'd agree that getting the old canister fitting out is the hardest part - the new assembly is easy after that. I'd hold the parts in my hands for a bit and loosely screw the filter on it so you get an idea of how it looks and its spacial properties before actually trying to install it. (remove the filter before trying to actually install it of course).

AND YOU ARE NOT LAME FOR MAKING A GOOF THAT A BUNCH OF US HAVE DONE.

 

[DNK]

Dale- Won't even tell you about the last oil change on the Wedge that I completely missed the catch basin it came out with such force. Ran down my arm as I tried to move the basin.

 

[Brosky]

OK Dale, now what's going on?

 

[Tinster]

OK Dale, now what's going on?

<span style="color: #000099">Wow!!

Is it possible there is a LBC owner that knows
LESS about auto mechanics than I do? If so,
I sure pity the poor slob.

Spin-on filter adapter? I'd never seen one before.
I thought the "spin-on" meant the entire assembly had
to rotate 360*, many times, to install. That's why
I thought so much of the engine compartment had to be gutted.

Now I see it is a very straight forward, single bolt
attachment and the filter itself is what spins on!

Thanks Paul!! And the color match to your car's head
is simply perfect.

d </span>

 

[Tinster]

Dale, you idiot!!

Spin on means exactly that. The entire assembly.

Ah Ha!!!!!!!!!!

There is indeed an auto mechanic's trick involved !!.

Compress the spring 100% with the bolt before trying
to place unit into the car. The bolt will stick out it's
full length.

Insert the bolt into the threaded hole and then rotate
the entire spin-on adapter until everything is snug and
centered inside the mounting ring.

Rotate into position to put on the filter can.

Unless you follow these instructions you will waste
hours of your time and ruin your nice powder coating surface.