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Some Assembly Required--Heaters

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L

LLAngus

Jedi Knight
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The catalogs show a foam or some other material sealant or spacer between the heater core and where the defrost tubes are. Is this a foam unit or what? The one I pulled out looked like spray on foam and was hard as a rock. Can I cut something out of foam or do I spray the liquid foam, or ....?

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I seem to remember a white, soft, closed cell foam, being in there.The kind you can squeeze and it crackles a little, then returns to its shape. I would say use whatever makes the seal, as long as its heat resistant.
 
In other words there should be something in there for a seal. I'll have to get one.

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I'm not sure about a midget but on my "B", I replaced the seal with one from Moss and it was a molded piece of rubber. Fairly stiff in structure. On the "B" you need this for a seal. Rather than trying to make one, I'd order a new one. They aren't that expensive and they fit perfectly. PJ
 
Y'all are gonna think (or use this as confirmation of prior suspicions) me nutso, BUT:

Yup, the tubes are rubber... I have replaced mine with hollowed out pieces of a "pool noodle". The swimming pool toys. All ya need is $0.75, a K-Mart and a good sharp fillet knife!

The "crash pad" that "The Ususal Suspects" get $100 for in the early CB cars I made of the "noodle" and had some left over for the heater /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
Doc

Put extra long heater hose on the B and routed it inside so I could keep my hands warm from the wind coming in through the heater opening. I was looking at a parts catalog and saw a spacer (?) between the hearer housing and where it connects to the firewall (?). There are two tubes that are recommended, also. The two mounting foam pieces for the heater core are a must I know. What you were talking about seems to be the tubes only??? I want to get all the pieces to put back the car to what it should be. The B is running great right now and I don't have the windshield fogging problem any more.

Bruce L

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To clarify: The "seals" between the defroster output flanges and the defroster plate holding the interior, corrugated ones are plastic tubes. The "noodles" replace those, and if you trim the I.D. correctly they seal well. The rest of the seals around all the plates and the heater box are thin and I used a bicycle innertube cut into appropriate widths, holes made with a hole punch, to fit the application. The foam ring between the engine bay part (the one with the screen) and the interior box (4" DIA) I used closed cell "packing foam" sheet, three layers, cut with a compass cutting tool and joined in layers with CG "Ply-o-Bond" cement...a thin film of RTV would work as well. The idea is that the commercially available "seals" are foam which can absorb water, while the materials I've adapted do not... NO MORE RUST is my primary goal here. Same packing foam as the exterior box seal was used to seal the fresh air flap in the interior, BTW. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif

HTH!

MacGyver is my middle name...
 
Rainy here today and yeaterday, couldn't get out to do the sand blasting. Fix the sand blaster though and got to clean the shop. I must look into a blasting cabinet. I'll order what I need tomorrow and go get the heat core from the shop--hopefully it will be ok.

Bruce L
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