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Sleeving of Master Cylinders, who??

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Brosky

Brosky

Great Pumpkin
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Who is the best for this work?

I have a spare brake and clutch unit that I want to have done, just to keep on the shelf after I change out my complete brake system this fall.

I will be switching the brakes over to Silicone fluid, as I did previously with the clutch replacement system.
 
In that case you probably don't want to use Apple.

Here's one place, although I have no experience with them myself.
https://www.whitepost.com/
 
TR3driver said:
In that case you probably don't want to use Apple.
Click to expand...


Apple sleeved my clutch master and did a great job. Why would he not want to use them?
 
TR6BILL said:
Apple sleeved my clutch master and did a great job. Why would he not want to use them?
Click to expand...
They won't honor their 1yr warranty if you use silicone fluid; and Paul said he was going to use silicone.

"rebuilt brake cylinders should be used with fluid originally approved for the application "
https://www.applehydraulics.com/ordering.htm

Even if I could buy Girling brake fluid, I wouldn't want to. It's like driving with a gun held to your expensive paint job.

Don't recall who it was now, but there was an absolutely stunning TR4 at Triumphest a few years back. With the paint under the MC and down the firewall wrinkled and discolored from a fresh fluid leak.
 
Aloha Paul,

I have used a small machine shop in Agawam, MA on several occasion to sleeve brake and clutch master and slave cylinders for me. Mark Frappier usually turns your stuff around in about 7 to 10 days. He uses stainless steel as the sleeving material.

There are several companies that offer brake cylinder repair services. There are several levels of service from complete rebuild (sleeved cylinder, rebuild kit installed and exterior bead blasted) to just new sleeves installed to original standard size bore. Some companies will ship previously rebuilt parts in exchange for your old parts, the advantage of this is your car can be back on the road sooner.

Below I am listing some of the companies I am familiar with:
Name phone number web site address
White Post Restorations 540-837-1140 https://www.whitepost.com
Apple Hydraulics 800-882-7753 https://www.applehydraulics.com
Brake & Equipment 612-378-3141 https://www.brakeplace.com
Mark Frappier 800-528-5235

I've used the sleeved cylinders with DOT 5 brake fluid for several years now with out a problem.

P.S. I used to live on Aquidneck Island before I moved to Oahu.
 
We need to "wiki" this: valuable info we want to keep available for all!
 
Thanks to all. Randall, I agree about the paint. Mine will be siphoned dry before everything is removed. That's one advantage to replacing every part in the brake system. Everything will come off and no old junk will remain to contaminate the new fluid.
 
TR3driver said:
TR6BILL said:
Even if I could buy Girling brake fluid, I wouldn't want to. It's like driving with a gun held to your expensive paint job.
Click to expand...

I flushed my whole brake system with DOT 4 synthetic, removed and rebuilt my master cylinder and was supposed to have my new wheel cylinders in today but they didn't show up. When they get here Monday or Tuesday, I'll get them on and have all synthetic fluid in the system. Looking at the ruined paint under the master, it IS like having a gun to your paint job with DOT3 non synthetic brake fluid of any brand.
Click to expand...
 
Dunno, maybe someone can ask Basil. I think it would be advantageous to have that info stored for reference purposes.
 
Paul, you say you are putting in a complete new brake system. Does that entail changing your brake lines or just cleaning them out and re-installing them. Mine were OE and quite nasty when I installed my new system. I changed everything from newly rebuilt front calipers (TRF) to all new master cylinder/servo to new rear components and emergency. Instead of steel lines, I opted for the Ni/Cu lines sold by Moss and have had no problems. Extremely easy to bend and install. Knowing you, I somehow think you will opt for stainless custom bent lines, which is attractive but 'spensive. I would have gone that route had I known at the time about the benders out there that would do that. Either way, a good choice. Some have maligned the Ni/Cu lines, my research has shown no issues with it. Unless you race.
 
I actually just answered this question for my TR3 restoration -- I saw Moss was having a sale on clutch and brake MC's for about $80 a piece, but Apple wanted $95 a piece to resleeve each. I sent Apple an e-mail asking whether I should buy new or have them resleeved, thinking that the resleeved original (I'm not sure mine were even "orginal"; perhaps they were replaced at some point) might be better than a new part all together. They said (their direct quote)

"to be honest, sleeve is just another complication that can
go bad - just a little squeeze in a vice will cause a leak
between casing and the sleeve."

Their general advice was not to resleeve unless new parts were unreliable, unavailable, or so expensive that buying new was prohibitive.
 
TR6BILL said:
Some have maligned the Ni/Cu lines, my research has shown no issues with it. Unless you race.
Click to expand...
What are the issues if you race ?

Only bad thing I've heard about Cunifer lines is that they are not DOT-approved (which apparently doesn't mean much anymore). The original fittings aren't suitable for race cars that get torn down a lot, but that's not the fault of the Cunifer.
 
MGTF1250Dave said:
I have used a small machine shop in Agawam, MA on several occasion to sleeve brake and clutch master and slave cylinders for me. Mark Frappier usually turns your stuff around in about 7 to 10 days. He uses stainless steel as the sleeving material.
Click to expand...
Just curious, Dave, do you know what procedure he uses ? Does he start with stainless tubing that already has the correct id, or bore/ream it out after pressing it into the MC ? If the latter, what sort of setup does he use ?

I've been practicing to become an amateur machinist, and that doesn't seem to be covered in any of my books.
 
Brosky, send it to White Post and I guarantee you wil not be disappointed. They are the best!--Keoke
 
I had my TR6 master done at the Apple and it works great without a drop or even a sign of a leak for 4 years now. After seeing the damage done to the paint and the mess on the carpet floor, I would send a new one off to have it resleeve if it is OEM, especilly if it is NOS. Hopefully the new after market ones are better. White Post is without a doubt the rebuild master of brake parts and they can do what A H said was not possible.
 
Mine was recently sleeved by Apple with stainless steel. (so were clutch slave and master cyl's). I'm using dot 5 in brake and clutch systems. Everythings working great so far.
 
Aloha Randall,

I honestly don't know his proceedure, however I have never had a failure of either a master or slave cylinder he done for me. I have always called him to confirm a price and turn around time before starting a job with him. He has always be friendly and out going. I would suspect that if you called him, would be willing to discuss his process with you.

Good luck on the machinist hobby, my hat is off to you.
 
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