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Sleeved blocks

BOBBYR

Jedi Trainee
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Hi Guys,
I was looking through a catalog, the other day,and I notied that they sell sleeves for 6 cyl motors.I was wondering if any of you have replaced them on your rebuilds?If so,can you describe the process? Again ,thanks for your help.
Bobby R
 
I had this done on tractor engine. A local machine shop bored out the block to except the sleeves and pressed them in. Fairly routine for a good automotive machine shop.
 
As original, a cast iron block doesn't have any sleeves fitted when new (unless it's something goofy, like a Triumph...).

The only reason you'd need a sleeve in a Healey block, would be if a cylinder was scored deeper than a routine overbore could clean up.

As Richard states, nothing out of the ordinary, as concerns engine remanufacture.
 
That's right, and we know how goofy them Triumphs are. Oops, was I suppose to say that? All in jest. Some of my best friends are Triumphs. What the heck, I drive a Vette......sometimes. But when I'm really having fun, it's all AH.
 
I had several Healey blocks sleeved when I used to rebuild them several years ago and usually because of one cylinder was too far gone and it would have meant all new pistons and complete boring for the block. It saved a lot of Healey owners a lot of money. I never sleeved a 2369cc Healey block and instead I just had it bored about .125 and installed std. 2912cc pistons which got a lot of owners out cheap and with more performance.

Sleeves work great when installed by a good machine shop.
 
Did the sleeve thing with my BN1, it was at 60 thou already and needed to go to 80 thou, engine man suggested resleeve with todays liners rather than spend all those $ on a total rebuild, and not be sure of the integrity of the 50+ old year metal block
 
I have a 51 MGTD Mk. II (can only locate SIX others!!) which I am doing a ground-up for a customer that when I opened up mic'ed out to .120 over size and pistons marked the same. Told my machinest what I had and he (not really knowing the XPAG motors) said "Can we go .10 more?".
I told him that .120 is WAY past what is recommended. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/nonono.gif

Sleeved all 4 holes and it is a work of art!!! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif

Ed
Please visit my web site at Home of " Just Brits "!
 
I had to take my 100 out to .060, which was the biggest I could find, when I rebuilt it last year, the macine shop man did not have a problem with resleeving, but preferred to bore out (and it was cheaper) if possible. I think it was 3-4 times as much per cylinder to resleeve as it was to bore out, if needed we were going to only resleeve any cylinder that we could not bore out to fix.

Of note he commented a couple of times on the quality of the steel used in the motor crank, etc, compared to more modern cars.
 
I am currently restoring my 100-4. It was already bored out .100 over. After much thought and research I decided to sleeve it and bring it back to factory specs. We were afraid to bore it out much more, and I couldnt find anyone that would recommend it.

The machine shop I am using pressed them in with out problems. I have yet to start the motor, but I am not expecting any problems (at least with the sleeves).
 
My 100 motor was already +0.060" when I got it. During a rebuild in 1974 I could not obtain oversize "dished" pistons so opted for a sleeve back to standard. I have never experienced any problems related to the sleeving.
Alwyn
 
Just to let you know that when I rebuilt the engine in my BN1 back in the early 1980's I had it bored out to .140" oversize which brings the capacity up to 2892cc. It has a compression ratio of 9.3:1 and ran like a charm never had any problems. There again I never revved it very hard either.

To the Aussies on the forum here it has forged high compression Holden 179 pistons. This was a common occurence in Australia at the time.

There have been 4 cylinder engines taken out further than that but they had the cylinders offset bored to get even greater capacity. This means that one cylinder is bored not on the centerline of the original bore but off to one side (looking from front to rear of the block). The cylinder next to it is then bored with the offset the opposite way to the first one. I think from memory you could then end up with a bore size of about 3. 625". Of course the only minor detail is the fact that you cannot make the combustion chamber correspondingly larger also without going through the sides.

With 3000's a bore size of 3.500" diameter is common with original blocks.

There is a lot of metal in there which is one reason they are so heavy.

bundyrum.
 
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