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Slave cylinder suggestion

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Rut

Rut

Obi Wan
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I have a mixture of transmissions and engines for my BE and I've looked over the spare rib case unit, cleaned it up and flushed it out. Everything looks new inside the case, but what do I know. The synchronizers have nice pointy ends, gears show no wear, it shifts nicely and came off of a '72. There was a little, possibly a lot of metal in the case that flushed out, some copper or brass and some aluminum bits, very fine. That being said, I want to get a slave cylinder to go on it to mount to a 1275. I'm using Tilton 3/4" masters, what slave cylinder should I use? Also, can you mount the slave cylinder prior to installing the engine/trans unit? I plan on adding a remote bleed set-up to the slave.
Thanks, Rut
 
There is a trick users use that cuts off the top of the upper slave bolt hole so slave can easily be slid in from below. Access to get at that top bolt is difficult to say the least. One flat at a time. With slot cut out, top bolt holds in position so slave cannot move and bottom bolt holds securely in place.

Beleive there are no issues to installing with slave in place. Then it is a case of connecting hose to slave and bleeding.
 
When your bolt and the threaded hole is very clean the bolt can be turned in by hand. Another sec with the wrench and good to go.
 
Thanks guys, any suggestion as to which slave cylinder I need to use for this application?
Thanks, Rut
 
Think 7/8 bore for 948 and 1098, 1 inch bore for 1275 or 7/8 for drum brakes and 1 inch for disk front brakes.
 
The 3/4 tilton is the same bore master as the early disc brake cars had, I'm sure, and the same bore as the later cars, I believe.

Kurt.
 
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