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Side window seal installation problem.

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robert_ellison

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I purchased a rubber seal for my side windows from Moss motors and, after cutting it into 2 sections and smearing it with oil as was suggested I attempted to install it, with no succes. Not only was I not able to fit the glass into the frame but, as a result of attempting to do so I found the seal being cut alone one edge of the frame, effectively ruining the material.

I would appreciate someone sharing their solution and method of installing the seal, and if as was mentioned in another post, the moss seal is too thick, where I might find the correct thickness seal.

I also wonder re the possibility that, instead of the rubber seal, I use some type of sealant, which would be fluid until it set, and it seems, would just as effectively seal and hold the windows in place.

Thank you,

Robert
 
Hi Robert, while I don't have an answer I just thought this was interesting as I currently have a side vent window seal sitting in a box because I didn't know how to install it either. I thought that I'd remove the vent window from the frame and then install it but I can't pull the window out because there's a large collar that prevents the post from passing through the frame. It didn't occur to me to cut the seal. I wonder how it's done.
 
Hi Crya,

Good question. At times I wonder that any of these isues were ever meant to be solved or, as now, just trash them and install everything new. I'll take a look at mine and see if I have any ideas. Much of what I end up doing is coming up with totally unorthedox methods of solving the problems, such as my thoughts re. using a sealant to solve the window seal problem.

Robert
 
Robert,
I had the same thing happen to me when I tried to install the frame pieces onto the window glass. I tried the trick that Anthony7777 suggested. I got a piece of old wire wheel rim band rubber which is the same as inner tube rubber, cut it in strips, soaked it with oil and then I was able to gently hammer on the metal frame pieces to the front and then bottom edge of the window glass which I had cushioned on my work bench. I used a small rubber/plastic head hammer to do it. These went on with no trouble and unlike the stuff I had bought from Moss, I had no hint of ripping the home made rubber strips. My side window glass is still snuggly attached to the window frames after more than a year. And the price is right if you have an old inner tube or wire wheel rim band laying around.
Ed
 
I forgot to mention.. Don't worry about getting the strips cut to the exact size ahead of time. After you get the window reassembled, you can easily trim your homemade rubber strips by running along the edge of the window frame with a sharp razor blade.
/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif
 
Hi Ed,

Well, there's a potential solution. Thanks for the info. It's always a pleasure when one of these problems is solved (so I can go on to the next)

Robert
 
Robert ellison, ed, wow its been a year since we did this? if i remember along with the inner tube solution i also posted pictures of much of the procedure showing screw locations etc, perhaps you can find them in the archives, im not able to locate the disk i used to take the pictures at the moment. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/savewave.gif
 
I thought Robert and I were talking about the rubber seal around the vent window but it sounds like you guys are talking about the glazing strips that are used for the actual roll-up window which go into the two parts of the metal riveted frame. Are you saying the Moss glazing strips don't fit the roll-up window frame? Cause I've got those sitting in a box ready for install this weekend.
 
I couldn't get the Moss glazing strips to go in. Least not with the glass.
 
ed,

I tried your suggestion but, actually, the moss seal & an innertube are the same thickness. This time I tried applying the seal only to the exterior side and inner bottom of the channel and it seems tight. Did you apply it to both sides (fold it over into a U so it covers one side, the bottom & the other side) or only one side?

Anthony

Do you remember anything about your post (header etc or approx when you posted last year. My search was not successful.

Robert
 
robert, two posts i remember are, "vent window seal replacement" and "bj-8 window glass replacement. and yes we "wrapped" the rubber around both sides of the glass.
 
On one window I only wrapped it on the outside and bottom as that was the only way it seemed to fit. Do you think it matters if it isn't wrapped on the inside as well if it is tight in the frame and sealed on the exterior?

Robert
 
Robert, perhaps this will help, - the rubber starts out as a long flat strip that goes around both sides of the glass sides, top, and bottom, i used a medium size rubber mallet to persuade it.
 

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Robert_Ellison said:
On one window I only wrapped it on the outside and bottom as that was the only way it seemed to fit. Do you think it matters if it isn't wrapped on the inside as well if it is tight in the frame and sealed on the exterior?

Robert
Click to expand...
yes, if you dont wrap both sides your sure to experience a rather severe shrieking whistle when approaching speeds in excess of 193 m.p.h. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/jester.gif
 
Nice drawing Anthony. I like that you went the extra mile with the shading. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbsup.gif
 
I answered Robert via PM but this post is for anyone else that needs to know,
Our homemade rubber strips may be the same thickness as the material that is made for this purpose, but they are very different composition. The inner tube/ rim band rubber when soaked with oil, seems to be able to stretch and flatten out as much as is required to fill the space between the glass and the metal channel(s) WITHOUT TEARING. As Robert and I both discovered, the glazing material that is sold for this purpose TEARS before you can get the metal channel hammered onto the edge of the glass. And as Anthony has said, you want to wrap the rubber strips all the way around the edge of the glass or it may not hold the glass firmly after it dries out all the way. Also, not wrapping the edge of the glass with a piece of rubber will leave voids that could collect water and then the rust will start in the bottom of the metal channel.
Ed
 
gregw, just a quick sketch but thanks, wish i could find the disk i have all them pictures on, guess its time to break down my office. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/savewave.gif
 
edk, your cars a beauty, if i ever get down to n.c. id like to sit in it and see how your wing mirrors work looks as if there in a good spot, mine are mounted to the top center line of each front wheel arch once you know how to use them i think there great. see pict. of "the beast" was taken the day i brought it home, before new tires and s.s./chrome wheels /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/savewave.gif
 

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here is info re. installation of the vent seal if it is of any use.

Robert

Replacing Window Vent Seals

by Lynn Maney

This is pulled from the Healeys mailing list.
Thanks to those who replied to my problem(s) and their suggestions on replacing the window vent seal. I want to share what I learned to, perhaps, save others from similar problems down the road. To properly replace the seal, the vent window must be removed. To remove this window, a bushing on the bottom pivot rod - below the vent window frame - must be removed. Bushing removal was my problem.
First, recommend removing the frame from the door. Removal of the ancillary parts is significantly easier and the process is straight forward. The major problem I had was the two small, Phillips head screws that secure the vent window frame to the outside of the door. After 31 years, these screws were securely corroded in place and didn't want to release. A dremel tool would have been helpful to cut a slot in the head - after the Phillips slots rounded off. A hacksaw blade worked fine, but the heads snapped off anyway.
After the vent window frame is out, the self locking nut, spring, washers, and attachment plate can be removed to provide direct access. NOTE: The selflocking nut can be removed with the frame in the door, but a deep well socket and lots of care and patience are needed. Much easier on the second door when the frame was removed from the door. The bushing is probably corroded and pretty dirty. Wiping, penetrating fluid, etc. did not reveal the nature of the beast. CAUTION: Do Not attempt to heat the pivot post to facilitate removal. The bushing is a very soft alloy (Aluminimum??) and will melt/distort and probably destroy the bushing. It is not a barrel nut either, so do not try to forcibly unthread either the nut or the post.
The secret: The bushing is, I think, called a "broached bushing". The ID of the bushing is "slotted" and mates with corresponding "flats" on the shaft of the pivot post. Simply grasp the bushing with pliers, or a vice grip, and carefully pull the bushing downward while gently "rocking" the bushing from side to side.
The above procedure requires removal of the door panels, window, etc. If you are only interested in the vent window seal. The method suggested by # (Thanks!) should work fine. Slit the seal adjacent the hole for the pivot post and work the seal around the post. This would have been my fallback option.
 
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