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Shut pillar differences? BN4 to BJ8

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MisterB

MisterB

Senior Member
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Hi Folks-
Sorting through the pile of parts that came with the '67 BJ8. There is a new shut pillar assembly in the pile and one that had been welded in to the left side some years back along with sills, long and short and a remedial floor patch and cross support. Panel fitment and body alignment on this previously done side is poor, to be kindly. The right side has had the floor and sills cut out and the cross supports repaired and there it was left. Here's the issue-- the new shut pillar assy from Moss has the part # for a BN4-BT7. The recess for the striker plate (AWOL- both of them) is in the wrong place.
Here's the question-- Is the profile, inner and outer, of these parts the same to allow using them? Moving the striker box is not a problem really but cutting out the previous repair would be a booger. As long as the curvature fits the fenders and the inner structure will mate up I see no problem. Any land mines to step on here?
Thanks in advance for any shared experience.
Regards,
Mike Burgess
Albert, KS
 
Hi Folks-
Just got my new left shut pillar yesterday. Answer is....YES, they are different. The BJ7-BJ8 pillar is wider and has a curved inside radius instead of a 90 degree. There is also a long tab welded to it on the inside for attaching inner panels.
Mystery solved.... now for the fun part-- cleaning up the mess and attaching the right one. Yippee!

Best-
Mike Burgess
Albert, KS
 
Old part cut out, new one fiddled, fitted and welded. The car has two doors that shut and latch now! Yippee!
 
Well done MisterB

Can you please drop in and sort my drivers side out for me seeing that you are a dab hand at door shuts :highly_amused:

:cheers:

Bob
 
Thanks fellows. Bob- if I am fortunate enough to win a sizeable lottery here I will contact you for the name of a good estate agent. We'll be neighbours! Something in a nice small cottage with a HUGE shop! A fellow has to have room for all those neat little motorcars with multiple names! And a little old Black Shadow in a corner, of course!
 
Hi Folks-
Bob- you might want to re thing that "dab hand" part. I think the driver's side was beginner's luck! The passenger side is giving me fits. Found a rusty hinge panel- cut off the lower and replaced just that. The shut panel is underway and the gaps go from windshield pillar rubbing to a chasm that you could fly a Concorde through. Fiddly, fiddly, fiddly. With perseverance and (maybe) a 3 pound massage with a 2x4 drift it will all come together! I will not let the barstage grind me down!
Best-
Mike
 
Victory! Baby got gap! Spent Sunday welding in the pass. toe board and aligning the cowl/hinge panel/fender/door etcetera ad nauseum. Fiddly, fiddly. Upon looking and thinking for a loooong time I realized that to get the door gaps right I had to jack up the cowl at the hinge panel. It went up about 3/16ths of an inch. Clamped it, welded in the toe board then the hinge panel etc. to the sill. Let it off the jack and re hung the fender and door for the umpteenth time and voila! The gaps were even! Adjusted the shut panel (yes, with a 2 pound hammer, a 3 pound would have been a wee bit of overkill) and the gaps are straight, even and just lovely! Striker is in and the door shuts, latches and unlatches just like it ought to! Whew! That's a big load off of my mind. No more Flintstone floors and a sorted door! A little more work and this one can be reclassified from salvage to a POS! Thanks again for all the input it sure helps the motivation.
Mike Burgess
Albert, KS
 
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