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MGB Shortening a MGB shift lever
- Thread starter vping
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tony barnhill
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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Why would you shorten it is a good question!
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I, like others, am curious as to why you would want to do this, but, if you still want to, I would recommend taking it to a good machine shop and have them do it for you. The new threaded area will have to be turned down so the proper size threads can be cut in. That is if you still want an MG knob on it. JMHO. PJ
tony barnhill
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/iagree.gif & before you take it to them, measure the height where you want your hand to be when its holding the knob.
Steve_S
Yoda
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First, why is your post censored? Is "shift lever" no longer an acceptable term?
Shortening the shift lever will increase the effort required to change gears. It will not shorten the travel of the lever but it might give the illusion of doing so because it will shorten the distance your hand travels.
A true "short shift kit" will reduce the distance the linkage in the shift tower travels, but I don't know of such a kit for MGB. Installing such a kit would likely require far too much effort to change gears anyway.
One last note, remember that shortening the lever will also increase the arc your hand will travel in. The change will be very small, but it's something to keep in mind.
The task of shortening it is simple. Cut the lever and run a die down the shaft. If you shorten the lever past the taper, it should be turned down on a lathe before threading. Also be careful of cutting threads through chrome. It is very hard and brittle and can cause chipping of the threads.
Shortening the shift lever will increase the effort required to change gears. It will not shorten the travel of the lever but it might give the illusion of doing so because it will shorten the distance your hand travels.
A true "short shift kit" will reduce the distance the linkage in the shift tower travels, but I don't know of such a kit for MGB. Installing such a kit would likely require far too much effort to change gears anyway.
One last note, remember that shortening the lever will also increase the arc your hand will travel in. The change will be very small, but it's something to keep in mind.
The task of shortening it is simple. Cut the lever and run a die down the shaft. If you shorten the lever past the taper, it should be turned down on a lathe before threading. Also be careful of cutting threads through chrome. It is very hard and brittle and can cause chipping of the threads.
OP
Offline
First off, if'n I made a boo boo and wrote in what I think y'all are eluding to, my apologies to the forum. I generally spell check but musta missed it.
I assume that he wanted me to shorted in to decrease my hand movement whil changing gears. The farther away from center the more it will travel - the closer to center to the my hand will travel. From center to trans is not changing but my hand distance will. Increasing effort, I agree - it will take more force, but how much trouble it is really to shift gears.
Will I shift quicker - am I racing to this degree that I will notice anything? - that's why I pose the question. Will all the work to do this give me increased performance, probably not. Can I do it with ease, sure. I can put the threaded end in a lathe, turn it down, cut it off and then thread it in a vice. Do I want to, I have so many things I need to do, I think I'll put it on the Rainy day list.
I assume that he wanted me to shorted in to decrease my hand movement whil changing gears. The farther away from center the more it will travel - the closer to center to the my hand will travel. From center to trans is not changing but my hand distance will. Increasing effort, I agree - it will take more force, but how much trouble it is really to shift gears.
Will I shift quicker - am I racing to this degree that I will notice anything? - that's why I pose the question. Will all the work to do this give me increased performance, probably not. Can I do it with ease, sure. I can put the threaded end in a lathe, turn it down, cut it off and then thread it in a vice. Do I want to, I have so many things I need to do, I think I'll put it on the Rainy day list.
tony barnhill
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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I corrected it - the vulgarity software didn't like that you left the "f" out of shift....hehehe
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Since it's a later box this may not be as much an issue, but I would decidedly NOT do that to an early box. Yes, the throw will be shorter and possibly "quicker" as a result... but more effort is required and as a result the balk rings get more force applied to them each gearchange. I'm all for quick shifting: the Elan can be shifted with wrist motion alone ("snick-snick-snick") like a joystick controller... but with a lump like a B box, I'd err on the side of caution. Just my opinion.
Rob_P
Jedi Trainee
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What a well timed post... Since I am finally driving the B I was also wondering about shortening the shiFt lever. (interesting, Firefox spell check will allow the missing f typo).
Not for a performance issue, but it just "feels" high. and the throws do feel a little long. I am getting used to it, with the big old steering wheel, it's kind of fun.
Not for a performance issue, but it just "feels" high. and the throws do feel a little long. I am getting used to it, with the big old steering wheel, it's kind of fun.
twigworker
Jedi Trainee
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I highly recommend it! Much more crisp and not nearly as much flailing of the elbow. LOL
You can do it several ways but the easiest and fastest is this way.
Pull the lever out.
Take it to the bench grinder and start grinding way at the area just below the threaded section. Take your time and do a decent job of reducing the diameter to something just short of the diameter of the threaded section.
When you think that you are close start a die down the threaded section and begin to cut new threads on the part that you have ground down. Take it easy and work the die on and off a little at a time. Take the lever back to the grinder if you meet great resistance and work the diameter down a little more.
The NEW section should be about 1.75 to 2.0 inches long.
When you have finished and have the die run all of the way to the bottom of the new section, chuck the lever up in a vise and use a hack saw to whack off all of the old threaded section plus a little more.
Now use a flat file to smooth out the end where the threads are sharp and follow that by unwinding the die off of the lever.
Now fit a new jamb nut onto the threaded section and install your gear knob for a test fit.
Upon re-installation you will of course need to remove said nut and knob, and don't forget to lube both the small ball end of the lever and the big fulcrum ball. Be sure to use the OEM spring washers under their shouldered cap screws, and what ever you do, don't drop the little plastic collar down into the top of the cross member. If you do you will play heck trying to fish it out! LOL
Everyone to his or her own taste here, but the combination of a lever so shortened AND the smaller LE 14" wheel is very tasty to me.
Jack
You can do it several ways but the easiest and fastest is this way.
Pull the lever out.
Take it to the bench grinder and start grinding way at the area just below the threaded section. Take your time and do a decent job of reducing the diameter to something just short of the diameter of the threaded section.
When you think that you are close start a die down the threaded section and begin to cut new threads on the part that you have ground down. Take it easy and work the die on and off a little at a time. Take the lever back to the grinder if you meet great resistance and work the diameter down a little more.
The NEW section should be about 1.75 to 2.0 inches long.
When you have finished and have the die run all of the way to the bottom of the new section, chuck the lever up in a vise and use a hack saw to whack off all of the old threaded section plus a little more.
Now use a flat file to smooth out the end where the threads are sharp and follow that by unwinding the die off of the lever.
Now fit a new jamb nut onto the threaded section and install your gear knob for a test fit.
Upon re-installation you will of course need to remove said nut and knob, and don't forget to lube both the small ball end of the lever and the big fulcrum ball. Be sure to use the OEM spring washers under their shouldered cap screws, and what ever you do, don't drop the little plastic collar down into the top of the cross member. If you do you will play heck trying to fish it out! LOL
Everyone to his or her own taste here, but the combination of a lever so shortened AND the smaller LE 14" wheel is very tasty to me.
Jack
OP
Offline
I chucked in up in the lathe & removed about 2 3/4". Turning down the shaft was easy and I added a little taper where the difference in diameters meet. I then rethreaded with a 3/8-16 die. Cleaned it all up with a scuffy wheel and blasted the shaft. Etch primed & ready for paint which will happen today at 1:00pm. I should have a pic tonight if I can.
