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Shock Conversion In [pics]

Miser

Senior Member
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This job was a real time consumer. Lots of me having to get up and down off the floor but it's done and it turned out nice.

Shocks002.jpg


Shocks003.jpg


Shocks004.jpg


Shocks001.jpg
 
I know a lot of people who have IRS have replaced levers with tubes, but it still seems like trying to fit a square peg into a round hole to me.
 
Not to burst your bubble, if your shock mounts are bolted to the body of the car then you really need to keep an eye on the mounting points on a regular interval. IF you run really stiff shocks they will act as a lever and work the body and eventually will tear the metal apart, kind of like bending a coat hanger back and forth, the metal with fatigue and start cracking, unless you have managed to bolt them to the frame member thru the boot deck?

Hondo
 
Did you remove all the undercoating on the outside of the car before mounting the bracket. As Hondo mentioned keeping the bolts tight is critical. The undercoated area will be the first place that causes the bolts to loosen. I'm back to lever shocks on my car.
 
Pretty sure it's a complete resto ,so prolly coating stuff is gone
 
If you look at the second and third picture, you will see that the bracket inside is bolted to the bracket underneath, which is then bolted to the original cross member for the leveler shocks.
Not a setup I would use, too many bolts , if something comes loss you may have to pull the gas tank.
 
This kit is the best of what is out there for conversions. There are quite a few cars with these that have a lot of miles on them with no ill effects due to the better bracing with the larger and more solid brackets. I think that he will be OK with this kit for a long time, but I'd Loc-Tite every one of those bolts, if they are not done and I'd use new grade 8 lock washers.
 
tr6_easyrider said:
...if something comes loss you may have to pull the gas tank.

From one who has not done this and really knows nothing about it... I wonder if it would be prudent to weld the heads of those bolts in place to make it easy to re-tighten later without having to get to the backside? Just a spot or two to keep them from turning.

Also (again, what do I know?) doesn't look like much thread beyond the nuts in pic #2 -- I like to have a couple of threads sticking out, esp when using those nyloc nuts.
 
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