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I need to set the timing on my 61 bugeye with a 1098 engine. Is dynamic or static timing more accurate? If dynamic timing, a couple of questions. The hood on my car opens forward, so using the factory timing marks is out. I guess I would need to make a mark someplace where I can see it. Suggestions? Do I disconnect the vaccuum line to the distributor? If yes, do I plug it after disconnecting it? Thanks for the help.
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Setting Timing???
- Thread starter Bob_Irwin
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Bob, using the factory marks as a reference, just use a grease pencil or chalk to put appropriate marks on the pulley and timing cover, at a place conveniently seen from up top. If you ever have the engine out, you can install a permanent pointer and mark on the pulley.
I run mine at about 12 degrees BTDC, but they all seem to have a different sweet spot. If you have an adjustable light, shoot for somewhere near 30 total advance at 2500 RPM.
By all means plug the vacuum line after disconnecting it, if you only are doing idle settings.
Jeff
I run mine at about 12 degrees BTDC, but they all seem to have a different sweet spot. If you have an adjustable light, shoot for somewhere near 30 total advance at 2500 RPM.
By all means plug the vacuum line after disconnecting it, if you only are doing idle settings.
Jeff
Hello Bob,
doing it dynamically with a strobe will give you a lot more information, e.g. if the mechanical advance is working, maximum advance, is the timing steady or erratic etc.
Whatever method you use to re mark the timing point, be accurate and also set it to minimise parallax error. Hence mirrors and the like are unlikely to be accurate. A timing pointer virtually touching the crank pulley is pretty foolproof.
Whatever method you use, static or dynamic, that is not the end of the job. You then need to drive it and make you final adjustment. You probably have a screw adjustment on your distributor, set that midway when you do the original timing adjustment so that when you do a road test you can easily adjust the timing one way or the other. If you have no pinging then advance your timing until you do, then back it off a little. This should give you optimum timing for your engine and the fuel you use.
Refer to my answer in your other post, set the mixture first.
Alec
doing it dynamically with a strobe will give you a lot more information, e.g. if the mechanical advance is working, maximum advance, is the timing steady or erratic etc.
Whatever method you use to re mark the timing point, be accurate and also set it to minimise parallax error. Hence mirrors and the like are unlikely to be accurate. A timing pointer virtually touching the crank pulley is pretty foolproof.
Whatever method you use, static or dynamic, that is not the end of the job. You then need to drive it and make you final adjustment. You probably have a screw adjustment on your distributor, set that midway when you do the original timing adjustment so that when you do a road test you can easily adjust the timing one way or the other. If you have no pinging then advance your timing until you do, then back it off a little. This should give you optimum timing for your engine and the fuel you use.
Refer to my answer in your other post, set the mixture first.
Alec