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Separating Fulcrum Pin from King Pin

Gray_Cat

Jedi Warrior
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Hi All - I think I know the answer already but just wanted to ask: The fulcrum pin on the front suspension I am rebuilding appears to have become one with the king pin. I tried heat, lots of soaking in vile compounds and all the muscle I can find to no avail. I took this off of a 70 Midget (harvesting disc brake set up for my 59 Bugeye) so it's only 35+ years old, didn't think it would be this difficult to take apart - not! Before I resort to cutting the fulcrum I just wanted to see if any other ideas or experiences out there. Any and all help is very much appreciated! Regards, Roy /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazyeyes.gif
 
Sorry, I've always replaced the A Frame, fulcrum pin and king pin.
 
Man I just always buy new a-arms and kingpins. The kingpins most often are worn. I have heard of guys cutting between the a-arm and the kingpin to remove the kingpin. Most times I find the a-arm is wornout and the kingpin is wornout. Good luck.
 
I used a cutting wheel on an angle grinder. It was easy!

Fulcrum pins are only about $15-$17 bucks, and the threads where trashed on mine anyway.
 
Not to sound silly, but you did remove the locking pin that goes through the king pin and stops the fulcrum pin from rotating right. This is a tapered pin with a flat side and threads on the small end. The first time I worked on one I didn't know about this and there was so much old grease and dirt that I didn't see it. Needless to say I had a hard time getting it apart until I removed it.
 
Ha, I thought of that and said Noooooooo.
 
Roy,
I couldn't get the fulcrum pins to release from the kingpins either. My A-arms were in good shape and I didn't want to buy new ones. I decided to the fulcrum pin between the kingpin and the A-arm. I started with a hacksaw and found out right away that those things are hard. So I bit the bullet and used an angle grinder and thin cutting wheel. It went pretty quick to be honest. I was worried about the leftovers of the pin that was still in the A-arm but all I had to do was use an EZ out in the grease channel and they screwed right out. On the second side I cut more into the king-pin to give my self more fulcrum pin leftovers to play with when I got ready to remove them from the A-arm. The threads in my A-arms were in good shape so I cleaned and painted them and put everything back together with new kingpins and fulcrum pins. I did thread the other side of the A-arm that didn't have a grease zerk so that I could grease them from both sides. If you don't have a angle grinder, you might be able to do the same with a saws all and metal blade but I was never able to get through the case hardening manually.
JC
 
Thanks everyone. I'll cut the fulcrum pin and then look at the A arms and see if I need to replace them along with the fulcrum and kingpin.
Chris: Fortunately I remembered the pin you mentioned from my first experience with them 25 years ago. You can tell that experience made a lasting impression!
 
On the tough fulcrum pins, I use a suitable cold chisel as a screw driver and you can use a socket on the end of the cold chisel. Now that big breaker bar.
I have only had one that refused to come out but I hit it with spray once in a while and I hope to get it out.
 
Can always take it to your friendly machine shop.
 
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