Seam Caulking

[Rob Glasgow]

I'm at the point of applying seam caulking to my sandblasted and primed frame. When I disassembled the car, I noticed very little seam sealer, applied in only a few places. A little in the trunk and engine compartment and some under the floorpans. Most of the gaps between the frame and floorpans were not sealed. This is the first restoration so that is the way it came from the factory.

What is the opinion of the forum on how much to caulk the chassis? My car has always been in California and has very little rust. The floorpans were rust free. I'm thinking if it lasted this long without sealing all the gaps, then maybe there is an advantage to having them open. On the other hand, it would be a snap to caulk them all now. What's your advice?

 

[Keoke]

What's your advice?----Caulk them all

 

[Lin]

Keoke always gives good advice!
Lin

 

[Randy Forbes]

Eastwood carries a real nice "brushable" seam sealer; theirs flows much nice than the 3M branded product. I go through 2 or 3 quart cans of this stuff per year, doing my BMW repairs. I put it on with cheap "acid brushes" and throw them away afterwards.

Concours or not, I would liberally apply seam sealer to every spot where two (>2) or more panels come together. I did just minimal seam sealing when I blasted my chassis (3M Fast-n-Firm caulk-gun type) , and I wish I had done more. In fact, I did use a little bit of the brushable type when I redid my wheelwells a few years ago...

BTW, that black stuff's Lord Fusor 805 wheelhouse coating; a chip resistant__and sound deadening__rubberized product:
Their 804 product is actually a seam sealer, and by varying the amount of air (at the tip of the gun) you can produce a stream of caulk to the texured finish shown in my wheelwells (and all the BMWs). The 804/805 can be topcoated in as little as twenty (20) minutes up to four (4) days__I give overnight, in most cases.

 

[HealeyRick]

Randy,

Check your PMs - off topic.