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Sealing Block

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I ordered and received the steel sealing block that I saw posted on this forum. That is the replacement for the OE aluminum unit that fits in the front of the sump on the TR6, the one that strips so easily. Got all the gaskets and wooden wedges to do the job, but waiting to combine this with possible new cam, timing chain and shaved head. At any rate, the piece the guy made is a work of art. Right now it is a pretty paper weight. My wife doesn't seem to understand.....

Bill
 
Bill,
Is this item also called a "saddle" bar or some such? I've seen this on ebay and was wondering if it was a worthy improvement.
 
From the best info I have, the proper name is "sealing block-front". Rimmer still lists them but not sure they are really available. This item I have is cut out of steel and seems to be an exact replacement. The one I have had been stripped by a "European Auto Specialist", translate that as really expensive, and was filled with goop to seal the stripped holes. I just felt this was a better replacement. Not sure why the original was aluminum, except that casting a chunk of aluminum and machining it is cheaper than cutting down steel bar stock.

Bill
 
Wear exactly did you get this? I stripped mine out a few months ago when rebuilding my engine, and cured it by putting an American threaded self-threading bolt in it's place. Works fine for now, but eventually it'll have to be done right.
 
Yeah...my sealing block stripped too.
I took it out to the next available size (metric).
I have to be careful not to mix up the two metric bolts with all the regular ones when I remove the pan.

By the way, I just did this (for the upteenth time) and the lastest Payen gasket sets come with little rubber blocks instead of the little wooden blocks (used to wedge the sealing block against the engine block). I was sort of happy since I've always considered the wooden blocks to be a bit primitive.....until I tried to fit the rubber blocks in place! They were impossible to fit! Eventually, after some careful trimming with a razor blade I got them in. I like the old wooden blocks better!
 
Bill,

From what I've seen of the new sealing block it looks like a perfect fix for a frequent wet spot on most motors. I emailed the seller when I first saw the item on ebay & he seemed like a straight up guy that has taken the time to make a better mouse trap. I had to "keensert https://www.ondrives.com/products.asp?recnumber=437 all of the threaded holes in mine to finally get a bone dry motor. If this part was available I'd have bought it in a heartbeat.
Attatched is a recall bulliten on this problem from British Leyland. I would also recomend using Hylomar sealant on all sealing areas.
https://www.tr6world.com/engine_sealing_block.htm
 
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