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Sealant on headgasket or not?

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2wrench

2wrench

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So I have the Payen gasket with the tab for my '74 TR6.

So do I put a sealant on the head gasket or not? One
reference actaully says to put a little extra sealant on
the valve (narrow) side of the head. Also, I've heard
so much about leaks at the rear of the head. What do you
think?
 
Please don't take this as the last word on the subject, but when I had my AH100 I had had the head off at least three times, couple for inspection, once after a rebuild, these cars are notorious for head gasket leaks, I used permatex copper gasket sealer, and had no problems, don't know if the sealer helped or it was luck, one guy told me that the copper stuff was "old school" but I don't know what the newer better stuff might be.
 
Just had mine off to try to stop a leak at the back of the head. I put the spray on copper sealant on the gasket. It's back together but too early to tell if made a difference.
 
I've also used Hylomar (spray), the real stuff. Most swear that it should be installed dry.
 
If it is a metal faced gasket, you can not go wrong using the Permatex copper gasket sealer, either spray on or brush on. Believe me, I have done hundreds and hundreds of head gaskets....
 
2wrench said:
So I have the Payen gasket with the tab for my '74 TR6.
Click to expand...
Not sure what the tab means on your particular gasket. The ultimate gasket is the "multi layer steel" which has riveted side tabs outside of the sealing surfaces. Usually three layers with a thin Teflon type coating on the sandwich surfaces.

These MLS gaskets should be installed dry. The head & block surfaces must be finished flat within 0.002" & have a much smoother finish than normal. When installed in this manner, they are nearly "bullet proof".

If you are talking about regular metal faced gaskets, copper spray seems to work ok. At least on low compression engines.
D
 
That gasket and that engine, the copper spray product Permatex markets is fine. Follow the instructions on the can for application.
 
This is my expeirence.

I have used the Payen gasket two times.
The first was a "temporary" valve job so I could drive my car after I purchased it. There were some things wrong and I wanted to be able to get a better idea of what would be needed when it was rebuilt. And I just plain wanted to drive it.

I did not use a gasket sealer. And I never retorqued the head. The first time was because the gasket reminded me of the Felpro gaskets I used during the 80's. I did not use sealer with them and they did not leak so I did the same with the Payen.

After a year and a half I removed the head and the gasket had sealed in all places.

When I rebuilt my engine again I used a Payen gasket. Because the first time worked so well I did not use any gasket sealer. I did retorque the head though because this was not a "temporary" repair.

That was last July and more than 5,000 miles ago. Everything is fine and there are no leaks. I have 9.8:1 cr, a GP2 cam, and do not baby my car.
 
Some folks I've talked to tht have also built a lot of engines use silver spray paint. personally, I think I would go with the copper before I would use paint. I'm getting ready to install the head on my engine and I'm going bare.
 
I have never used a sealant with a Payen and have never had a problem.
 
No sealer on my Payen and it was fine when we took the head back off.

Proper installation torquing and retorquing after 600-800 miles is just as important than sealer with these gaskets and engines.

Do you have new studs and/or have the old ones been checked and all threads in block and studs/nuts cleaned with a tap and die?
 
I thought Payen gaskets had a special sealing coating on them (they do for the A-series BMC engines anyway). This sounds like what Tom is mentioning above. I would think using a spray coating on a pre-coated gaskets is a way to promote failure not success since the two sealants may not be compatible.

That said, on un-coated (bare) gaskets, I've always used the copper gasket spray with good results.
 
dklawson said:
I thought Payen gaskets had a special sealing coating on them (they do for the A-series BMC engines anyway). This sounds like what Tom is mentioning above. I would think using a spray coating on a pre-coated gaskets is a way to promote failure not success since the two sealants may not be compatible.
Click to expand...

They do have that coating on them.
 
The only place I apply a sealer to the head gasket is on the outer edge next to the push rod gallery opening.
 
Thanks to all. I think I'll go with nothing for a few
reasons that sway me: Ease of install; ease of extall;
seems to have worked for a good number; Payen seems
to have addressed the issue of sealant.

There is beauty in simplicity.
 
Dave Russell said:
2wrench said:
So I have the Payen gasket with the tab for my '74 TR6.
Click to expand...
Not sure what the tab means on your particular gasket. D
Click to expand...


Dave: The cylinders on a TR6 after 1974 have a recess machined right at the
top of every cylinder. This was an engineered design change to correct
issues with previously manufactured cars that were gaining notoriety for
blowing head gaskets.

These heads with the recess require a special head gasket for this year to
accomodate the slightly different machining.

The head gasket is easily identified by the distinguishing characteristic of having
a "tab" that is attached to it that is oriented at the back of the engine,
protruding there for easy identification, I suppose.
 
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