Rust

[SwamperCa]

I'm currently looking at a 70 TR6. It has rust thru spot very low on the front fenders. The area directly were the tire splash comes up .Not being familar with TR's is this a normal area for rust. Also what other areas are a concern for rust, the owner says that the floors are good no rust and that these lower fender areas are the only rusty spots on the car. Also the trans is needing a rebuild, what is a resonable cost to get it rebuilt. I've been doing MGB's but would like to start a triumph project. Not knowing to much about TR's trouble areas however I do know the general mechanics of them.

 

[mcguijo]

Water and grime can get behind the splash guard on the front fender and cause it rust out. This area would likely not have had aftermarket undercoating. Another area is the rocker panels (under doors).

 

[Banjo]

Fenders and rockers are common, also look at the seams along the top of the rear fenders, and more importantly underneath the car right between the rear tire and the back of the door, check the frame. Right there where it comes out to the rockers and the rear suspension swing arm brackets are bolted to the frame, the frame tends to rust through. It can be fixed, but pay accordingly as the repair can get a little pricey and many states don't like to see a repaired frame for the safety inspection

 

[Alan_Myers]

Hi,

A little more about the fender rust spots...

What you see on the outside there is usually worse underneath. At least consider it a red flag to look at much more closely.

In addition to the splash, already mentioned, there is a drain behind the fender there, that directs water out of the scuttle and right on top of the hidden part of the rocker. If the fender is rusting from the inside out, the way it usually does, that means the drain holes to allow water to escape are likely plugged and water/muck is trapped, so the hidden part of the rocker is likely rusted as well. Another thing to try to inspect is the footwell, the outer wall of which, that's shared with the area behind the fenders and is usually covered with carpet. The rocker and even fender repairs are pretty straightforward, the wall that doubles as the wall of the footwell is tougher to replace, but thankfully is also usually the last to go. As mentioned, that whole area behind the fender typically only got a passing spray of primer and paint on most cars, so is prone to rust. Many restorers do a much more thorough job of painting, sealing and protecting those areas, plus revise/lengthen the drain to take water all the way out under the car.

Still at the front, look at the closing panels right behind the rear wheel, which forms the final wall to enclose the areas discussed above. These separate pieces also weren't very well painted and can rust where they bolt to the inner fender or along the rubber strip that's supposed to seal to the outer fender. Or they can rust out at the top, which allows a lot more splash of water and mud to get into the critical area between the inner and outer fenders. WOrst case, occasionally I've seen those closing panels missing entirely, either rusted away or left off during a rebuild, which really exposes all that area to potential problems.

I agree to check the tops of the fenders, where they join the body. Look up from below with a flashlight, and also inspect carefully around the edged of the hood and trunk openings, where the fenders are bolted. Look closely up underneath at the tail light area, under the rear fender. Also, as mentioned, the base of the b-post (if possible, peel up a little of the vinyl trim to see if it's rusty underneath).

I'd want to remove the carpets to inspect the floor, and take out the spare tire to look in there, as well.

Yes, look closely at the various openings at the rear of the frame. These slope forward and tend to rust progressively from the back toward the front.

This is just the begining of what should be checked, on the frame and elsewhere. If at all possible, do yourself a favor and get a copy of Roger Williams' "How To Restore Triumph TR5/250/6". It has discussion and illustrations of all these areas, and many more, in a chapter devoted to inspecting a prospective purchase. It's filled with good info and detail that might save a lot of money and work later! I understand Roger has another book coming out soon, with even more detail about TR6, but I think it's mostly written with an eye toward maintaining originality.

I hope you find that's a great car, a real keeper, and get it! Hey, the more MG owners we can convert, the better! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif (Just kidding... don't flame me! Seriously, I want to restore an MGA and a Bugeyesome day, so please watch for my newbie questions when I do!)

Banjo, as stringent as their smog check is, I find it odd but California has no safety inspection. Might explain the frequency of the car fires and some of the other weird breakdowns I've seen along various freeways since moving here in 1987. Sometimes when I think about it, I get nervous about sharing the road with all those millions of un-inspected cars, knowing how little care and attention most Californians give their cars! Just add soccer moms, cell phones, mascara, GPS computers, satallite radio and 800 watt stereos, portable video players, and massive SUVs to the bumper-to-bumper-10-mph-over-the-speed-limit morning commute. You'll understand why I prefer working from home!

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif

 

[Kurtis]

[ QUOTE ]
Banjo, as stringent as their smog check is, I find it odd but California has no safety inspection.

[/ QUOTE ]

Perhaps it's the state's effort to permanently remove the older cars from the road by allowing the unsafe cars to "self-destruct", thus reducing the emissions concerns of older cars? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jester.gif