• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

TR6 Rust and hesitation 71 TR6 6

Share this page

D

DennisVaz

Freshman Member
Country flag
Offline
If there is a lot of rust appearing in the fuel filter coming from the gas tank can that cause hesitation ?
I get a decent ride if I baby the gas pedal, virtually no hesitation. As soon as I get aggressive with the gas pedal like flooring it is when the hesitation starts.
When I slow it down and baby the gas pedal again I can bring it back to where there isn't any hesitation.
 
Try changing the fuel filter to see if it makes a difference and you’ll know more.
 
You may have to change the filter a bunch of times to deal with the rust. It may not stop and you will need a new tank.
Bob
 
Gliderman8 said:
Try changing the fuel filter to see if it makes a difference and you’ll know more.
Click to expand...
I did put a new filter on. I've only owned the car 3 weeks. when I replaced the filter I found that it was filled 90% with rust from the tank. It runs 90% better with the new filter, but I can see that rust is starting to enter the new filter.
Changing the filter , plugs and wires eliminated horrible bucking and hesitating.
Do you think that it could be the rust coming into the fuel filter that's causing the hesitation when I'm aggressive with the gas pedal.
I think I'm either going to have to clean and seal the tank or get a new one.
 
Sounds like fuel starvation. Sounds like you will need to turn your attention to the tank. As bobhustead says you’re probably looking at a new tank.
 
Gliderman8 said:
Sounds like fuel starvation. Sounds like you will need to turn your attention to the tank. As bobhustead says you’re probably looking at a new tank.
Click to expand...
That's what I figured too. I just wasn't sure if there might have been a cheaper fix than buying a new tank or ceiling the one I have.
 
Whether you seal the tank or replace it, you'll have to remove it, so that's the place to start.

This is a good time to check the tank generally, as they are prone to rust through. In the TR4, the underside sits on a fiber pad that gets wet and rusts the bottom of the tank; dunno if the TR6 is the same, but it seems likely.
 
Each time I restore a LBC and remove the fuel tank I always clean and reseal the tank as it site for a time on the shelf. the last two I did I used Eastwood tank seal kits, it says will fix pin holes also. I did use a kit from the motor cycle shop on my TR6 20 years ago and still no problems to this day. The Eastwood kit you will need to get a few items to go with it. and the cleaning prosses will take it to bright metal. Best of luck it will be well worth your time and money
 
I've also used the Eastwood kit, on my Porsche tank. That was 11 years ago, per my maintenance records, and it's still OK. More recently, I used Red Kote on my TR4A tank, and I actually liked it a little better, as it was easier to apply and to avoid flowing as it dried. That was only a couple years ago, so I can't comment on its longevity. I suspect that the longevity of either product depends on care in preparing the inside surface of the tank.
 
Back
Top