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Rust advice

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bugedd

bugedd

Jedi Knight
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I've been wanting to do something about a bubbling issue on the seam on the bonnet since I got my car, most likely will attack it this fall. So perhaps someone can give me some direction. The paint on the bonnet is a good 5 footer, so I don't want to repaint the entire thing, rather just deal with the issue and spot it.
20160822_070350.jpg
 
Oh a basket of snakes you are about to open up and grab.
 
Ya, I kinda know that, and thats why I'm limiting myself to that issue alone. The bonnet has some glass work on it and other issues that I'd like to ignore and live with for now.
 
bugedd said:
I've been wanting to do something about a bubbling issue on the seam on the bonnet since I got my car, most likely will attack it this fall. So perhaps someone can give me some direction. The paint on the bonnet is a good 5 footer, so I don't want to repaint the entire thing, rather just deal with the issue and spot it.
View attachment 44283
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Where's Mike and Edd when you need them?
Rut
 
Rut, your comment has me confused.....
Edd
 
Wheeler Dealers TV host.
 
This is one of those issues that always have tons of different viewpoints. I have the same problem on my Spitfire. Until I can get a full paint job, I use
a Dremel with sanding drums and disks. I use the tool to get below the rust and then feather the surrounding paint with 600 grit . Because it's a temp job I use a
spray can of primer and then the nearest match spray can of color. Not perfect but less noticeable at 5 feet. Treated several bad spots last year and so far they are holding
up.
 
Just remember that those bubbles also are bubbling in the other direction, too.
 
I was reading up on dipping for rust and stripping, didn't see too many good reviews on it due to chemicals not getting cleaned out completely. Seems with the beading it would be about impossible to deal with without dipping however
 
Edd,
When the time comes for a full paint job I would suggest you look at the 'dustless' blasting. Essentially it's sand or other media mixed with water and a chemical to prevent rust and they say it can be done in your driveway over a tarp.
Rut
https://www.dustlessblasting.com/
 
bugedd said:
I was reading up on dipping for rust and stripping, didn't see too many good reviews on it due to chemicals not getting cleaned out completely. Seems with the beading it would be about impossible to deal with without dipping however
Click to expand...

I had my bugeye dipped at a Redi Strip location about 30 years ago. It was stripped of the rear fenders but not the front. Got into all the crevices of the beading and I've never had a problem with chemicals dripping. (Did eat up the body tags, though). Only other way I can see of dealing with the beading rust is what some guys have done. Cut it off, dremel out what you can of the remaineder between the fender and shroud, then kill the rust with your favorite treatment, epoxy prime and braze or glue on replacement beading.
 
For temporary I think I would go with spot sandblasting. Sandblasting gets into the rust pits better than about anything. Then a little glazing and/or filler and paint touch up.

Kurt.
 
I do not know where to find it in Nor Cal, but very cool!
Paul
 
Probably not something you expect to find in the typical home shop.
 
I had some bubbles..little ones...usual places..ended up with a paint and body guy and a new paint job on a
car which had a nice paint job before. Just saying. It's a hobby. Nice knowing what is there. I think my Frog
had about 4 different paint jobs. Hardly any rust. Less now. :cool-new:
 
Well, that rust removal dream just died! A chap at the site below contacted a supplier and provides the costing info:

https://shortshift.co/laser-rust-removal/
"First the good news. This technology is real and it works. It’s also the dream tool for anyone who has a project car sitting in their garage. This machine creates a high power laser that you can set to a certain “depth” that will scrape the rust off existing metal surfaces. There is also a small vacuum in the gun that sucks up all debris as you blast it off. This means that it is chemical free, dust free, and cleanup free!

Too good to be true? Almost.
The bad news is that you can’t really go down to Home Depot and pick one up. I reached out to Adapt Laser Systems, the creators of these beautiful devices, and told them I was interested in their product. They got back to me within a couple of days and laid the hard truth on me:
Hello Chris,
Our laser systems are high end industrial cleaning tools for many industrial applications. They are being used in fully automated systems to prepare parts to welding, or to strip paint of aircraft, such as the F-16.
Our Backpack unit with 20W starts at $80,000.00. The CL 1000, as featured on the You Tube or the TV show, starts at $480,000.00.
Please let me know if you need further information.
 
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