Russ Removal

[mountainman]

Here is a product that I found to remove rust and old paint. Mean Green Tile and Bath.
I bought it at a Dollar General Store here local for 2.00 a bottle.
It works great. All you do is submerge whatever you want to clean in it over-night and
presto it's clean and ready to prime.
Sorry, the before pic don't show how bad the rails were. I hope this might help someone
doing a restore it really helped me and I saved a ton on blasting. You can use it over & over Greg
//i59.photobucket.com/albums/g317/gregflash/before.jpg //i59.photobucket.com/albums/g317/gregflash/after.jpg

 

[tdskip]

Did Russ upset you or something?

Not sure how well it will work on "Russ", but looks good on "Rust" - lol.

Thanks for the heads-up. Bet there is some phosphoric acid in there...

 

[DNK]

Didn't he buy a Jag. Kind of takes care of itself doesn't it?

 

[Tinkerman]

Did you wash it in water after you took it out of the Mean Green Stuff? What are you going to use as a primer?
I have all of my cappings to do and I would rather soak than bead blast because of the thin metal.

Tinkerman

 

[tosoutherncars]

Probably phosphoric acid? I do the same thing, but I use BEHR's plumbing pipe cleaner & rust remover, available in the paint section at Home Depot.

 

[Mark Jones]

If you stop feeding Russ beer he will soon leave.

There is another product that I have found works well to remove rust called Evapo-rust

 

[Dale]

The Mean Green looks to be about a quart bottle. At 2 bucks a quart, it certainly compares favorably with other specialty products at $21.00 per gallon. I appreciate the tip.

 

[mountainman]

Did Russ upset you or something?

Not sure how well it will work on "Russ", but looks good on "Rust" - lol.

Thanks for the heads-up. Bet there is some phosphoric acid in there...

Sorry about the typo. I did wash the parts with soap and water after cleaning. I used Rustoleum Primer.
Greg

 

[Silverghost]

It's ok, Greg, most of us here are well versed in Typonese!

 

[martx-5]

I have all of my cappings to do and I would rather soak than bead blast because of the thin metal.

Tinkerman

Tink, the doglegs and the pieces over the doors are the only capping pieces that are steel. You can bead blast them if you want. The rest of them are aluminum, so there's no rust problem. They are the thin ones and should only have glue on them to remove. When I stripped the aluminum cappings, there wasn't even much glue left, so it was an easy job. The big problem was getting them straightened out.

Besides, I don't know if I'd want to soak the aluminium cappings in anything containing some acid.

 

[kodanja]

Who's Russ & what did he do to have to be removed?

 

[Russ Austin]

Russ removal, I know it’s been talked about for awhile but I’m not sure what did I do to deserve it.

 

[DrEntropy]

:lol:

...wonder'd 'bout that meself.


I just hope it isn't painful.

 

[angelfj1]

Tink et al, I bead blasted at low pressure and powder coated.

 

[Tinkerman]

Your right Art, I wasn't thinking about soaking the Aluminum dash piece. Thanks for the warning though, I still do dumb things and fore warned helps. Yesterday I very carefully assembled the gear selector forks onto the rods before I installed them, duuummmmbbbbb, AND I used locktite. I then left the shop to go to town to have lunch with my wife aaaarrrrgggghhhhhh. Was able to dissasemble and fix though, so all is well. Hate it when I do stupid.........

Tinkerman

 

[Tinkerman]

Frank did you bead blast the Dash capping also? Have you covered them yet? Someone built an interesting wood jig to hold the curved capping while he glued the fabric on. I'm pretty sure I tucked that info away so I could use the idea when I'm doing mine. Just don't have it at hand right now, will dig it up tomorrow when I'm awake.

Tinkerman

 

[DougF]

I gotta couple no-neck buddies that can take care of the job, if ya know what I mean.