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running--barely

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airlifter

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I have the engine back together and it is running-sort of.

I know I have a problem with the carbs because it is hard to start without some help from a shot of gas to the carbs. I am gong to order a couple of kits and rebuild them.

The other problem that I have is with the timing. The timing seems to be close but the timing mark is moving around. The timing chain and gears are new so I suspect the dizzy. I saw that TRF had a rebuilt dizzy for $249.92. Has anyone had any experience with these units? Would I be better off to send it off to be rebuilt? Who does a good job on the rebuilds? Does anyone else sell them?

You can send me a pm. I know that Basil does not like to talk down the vendors.

Thanks for any help, Pete
 
airlifter said:
Thanks

Does anyone have a number for Jeff?
Click to expand...

advanceddistributors.com

612-804-5543
 
I'm not a big fan of Pertronix but it is a possible solution if your distributor is the culprit. Indeed I think that 'Advanced' often installs a Pertronix to address this problem.
 
My opinion, you've got something else going on. Grab the distributor shaft and wiggle it from side to side; if it only moves a bit then it is probably not the main issue. I drove for many years with the timing doing it's little light show, and the engine still started easily and ran OK.

Ditto the carbs; the choke should be able to go plenty rich even if the carbs aren't in top shape. I'd be looking more for a bad coil or condensor, bad plugs, etc.
 
Pete , sorry gave you the wrong page
Sorry Ignore mine and read above
 
And check the crank damper for rotted/stiffened/ruptured rubber between the outer ring and the crank-driven center.

Find TDC mechanically and back the crank up an approximate 8 degrees, static time it and try starting it again.
 
I had the Pertronix and changed back to points. I had the problems with both. I was hoping that the new chain and gears would fix the problem.
 
Ahh. Have you done the basic checks? Compression, perhaps a leak-down, made certain the cam and crank are in proper relation?

I'm NOT being a smart-arse here, just trying to establish a base.
 
I have not done a compression check. I just replaced the rings,bearings and rebuilt the head. That doesn't mean that I still don't have a problem.

I believe that the cam and crank are oriented properly. I got some help form the forum earlier and I think it is correct.

While I am here I have another question. I have the stock carbs on the car and I also have a set that are from a '72. I am going to rebuild one set of them. Does anyone have a suggestion on which would be the best set to rebuild?

The ones from the '72 can be adjusted and the stock ones cannot. Is this an advantage? I am not sure of the condition of the ones from the '72 because I bought them used.

Thanks again, Pete
p.s. don't worry about being a smart arse. I don't take anything for granted and will accept all the advice I can get
 
If you can use the pistons from the 72 carbs in the 69 carbs, that is the way I would go. Otherwise I'd use the complete 72 carbs.

IIRC the 69 carbs have a very small adjustment for idle mixture (air bleed), but it's pretty much useless.
 
I just did a compression check. I couldn' warm the engine so I did it cold. I don't know how much difference it will make.

All cylinders were around 145 except 4 & 5. They were a bit of=ver 140.

I noticed that #1,2and 5 plugs were sooty. 3,4 & 6 looked pretty good. Any thoughts?
 
Check your point gap twice, once between #3 and #5, then again between #2 & #4. You might have a bent distributor shaft.

Also, have you double-checked valve lash?
 
I have checked the valve lash three times. I am going to send the distributor to Jeff at Advanced distributors. I have the destributor ready to send next week. While it is gone I am going to rebuild the carbs.
 
I would wait to do anything else till you get the distributor back and run the car. you only want to change one thing at a time or you will have too many variables, if still does not run right you will be asking is it still the distributor or is it now the new rebuilt carbs?

Hondo
 
hondo402000 said:
I would wait to do anything else till you get the distributor back and run the car. you only want to change one thing at a time or you will have too many variables, if still does not run right you will be asking is it still the distributor or is it now the new rebuilt carbs?

Hondo
Click to expand...

Good advice. I might rebuild the extra set and wait to change them until after I get the distributor back and installed before I change the carbs.
 
I got the dizzy back from Jeff a few weeks ago but haven't had time to install it. Got that done today. Lo and behold the timing mark stays right on 10 degrees BTDC. (As per Jeff's instructions.

I cannot get the idle down and keep the engine running. When I try to set the idle down the engine stalls. I don't have the tach hooked up and I am using a small dwell/tach meter to check. I have the early Stromburgs and they do not have an adjustment. Any suggestions?

Thanks, pete
 
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