Rotisserie

[jackq]

Since I'm building a new kitchen(all the way to the outside studs) for my wife...I thought now would be a good time to throw in"Oh..by the way...I'm getting a rotisserie"...now she thinks I'm going to cook chickens or something. Not that she's care that this behemouth will take up a large corner of one of my shop bays. She'll get it when she sees her 65 Mustang suspended from the thing. I have an appointment with a guy in Amarillo Texas that does soda ash blasting so as soon as the stripping...engine, trans, glass etc. is completed I'll trailer it to Tx. and start the resto. After that I'll do the same thing with an extra 77B roadster I got stashed...sure saves alot on sanding.

 

[Hap Waldrop]

I built a rotisserie for the Huffaker MGB when I restored it, even put phuenamtic tires o it, when it came time for media blasting I took the rotisserie and car and it all went inside the enclosed trailer for tranporting to the media blaster. The blaster guy loved it, he could get to those hard to reach places by turning the car around to different angles, I made squezze clamps on my rig, so I had infinite adjustment.

 

[Bayless]

Veerry nice /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif

 

[jackq]

Looks almost idenical to the one I built for VW bug pans....but I figure for bigger cars like the Mustang and whatever else I stumble across....I'll need something a bit stouter.

 

[scott421]

Looks superb , - what do you use for the pivots ?

 

[Banjo]

Anybody have any pics of a rotisserie setup for a TR2-3?
I'm going to build one (probably out of a pair of engine stands) but I havent quite figured out how to attach the front end yet.

 

[Hap Waldrop]

Looks superb , - what do you use for the pivots ?

Just like a motor stand, a piece of pipe passing thru the ID of another piece of pipe, the only thing we did different, was the reciever piece of pip (the one welded to the end stand) was slotted with a 1/4 end mill first, then suare tab with a 1/2" hole welded on each side of the slot on the reicever pipe that a bolt and nut can be put in the tighten the squeeze clamp, what this allowed us to do is create a squeeze clamp, which would allow you to lock the rottiserie in any position, the added bonus that came from this is we found if we tighten the squeeeze clamp just to right amount, it was more than enough to hold the car still, but yet just loose enough to slow down the rotation rate if you want to turn the car by hand, in otherwords the squeeze clamp holds the weight of the car enough to allow easy one hand turning of the chassis, no fighting the weight of the chassis. The squeeze clamp is a good design as well over other designs like a set bolt, as the squeeze clamp will no groove the inner pipe and that reason the squeeze clamp will last longer and give more trouble free service.

 

[Hap Waldrop]

Looks superb , - what do you use for the pivots ?

Just like a motor stand, a piece of pipe passing thru the ID of another piece of pipe, the only thing we did different, was the reciever piece of pip (the one welded to the end stand) was slotted with a 1/4 end mill first, then suare tab with a 1/2" hole welded on each side of the slot on the reicever pipe that a bolt and nut can be put in the tighten the squeeze clamp, what this allowed us to do is create a squeeze clamp, which would allow you to lock the rottiserie in any position, the added bonus that came from this is we found if we tighten the squeeeze clamp just to right amount, it was more than enough to hold the car still, but yet just loose enough to slow down the rotation rate if you want to turn the car by hand, in otherwords the squeeze clamp holds the weight of the car enough to allow easy one hand turning of the chassis, no fighting the weight of the chassis. The squeeze clamp is a good design as well over other designs like a set bolt, as the squeeze clamp will no groove the inner pipe and that reason the squeeze clamp will last longer and give more trouble free service.

 

[tony barnhill]

Only difference between Hap's & the one I had (sold it when my days of using were over) was that instead of the single piece of metal tying the 2 engine stands together, we had a boxed lower frame...that seemed to strengthen it a bit for heavier cars like an MGBGT when moving it around.....& it didn't really take up any additional space.

 

[JPSmit]

FWIW I made a rotisserie out of 2X4's. worked fine - attached it via the bumper bolt holes. Minimal investment and no problem at all for holding the weight of a Midget shell.

 

[Silverghost]

Ok....this is timely...I have been thinking about this process for my mini traveller. Any recommendations? Also I caught the mention of soda ash blasting....can someone tell me more? I have been wondering about the differences in sand/bead/other media blasting and/or the dipping process.

One more thing...I am building a new garage in the next couple of weeks...any suggestions from the "I wish I'd thought of _____ when I built my gararge" front?

 

[JPSmit]

I found the wood process real easy. I can send you my plans if you like. The only changes I would make are.

1. I would attach the two rotisserie pieces at the bottom with a 2X4 (probably still will) I made the mistake of pushing (rather than pulling) the car once and the other end rolled under. BTW the cost was about $15 wood and about $40 castors & hardware.

2. I would get bigger castor wheels to make rolling easier. Other than that, no problems.

RE: Soda blasting. The recommendations I am getting is that soda is gentler than sand and less likely to distort the panels. I hope to get mine done in the next couple of weeks prior to body work & painting.

 

[tony barnhill]

One thing I've heard about soda is that used dry it gets into everything - even places sand won't go & is harder to clean up than sand...

I've always had good luck with sand (even used it on my TD)

 

[mccalebr]

With regard to building a rotisserie...
I have a page on my web site that details the two-engine stand rotissaerie I built recently. It may be too light duty for a pony car, but some of the questions concerning attachment points and so forth will be similar. You can check out the photos at:

https://www.raysmg.com/rays_mg_midget_rotisserie.htm

Ray

 

[Lucas63]

There is a rotisserie plan here https://www.britishv8.org/Articles/Auto-Body-Rotisserie.htm that I may build. I like the hand crank. Question....would adding a ladder frame to mount the body on be a smart idea, or a waste? I have floor pans, door sills and fenders to repair or replace. A ladder frame seems to be the right thing to do but I don't know. It adds weight to the rotisserie and how much deflection do you get on a square tubing ladder frame with the 13' span of a TR4? I could use some advice before I waste my time and money.

 

[JPSmit]

Jeff, if what you are proposing is setting the shell on a ladder frame and then mounting the ladder frame to the rotisserie, I'd suggest you not. From my experience, the closer you can get the car to its centre pivot point the easier it is to spin. I was very close with mine and could basically spin it with one hand. If what you are proposing is what I am imagining, you will have the entire weight of the car above - outside - (insert correct word here) the pivot point and it will be hard to spin and easy to tip the whole rotisserie. I hope I'm making sense with this comment.

 

[Lucas63]

Jeff, if what you are proposing is setting the shell on a ladder frame and then mounting the ladder frame to the rotisserie, I'd suggest you not. From my experience, the closer you can get the car to its centre pivot point the easier it is to spin. I was very close with mine and could basically spin it with one hand. If what you are proposing is what I am imagining, you will have the entire weight of the car above - outside - (insert correct word here) the pivot point and it will be hard to spin and easy to tip the whole rotisserie. I hope I'm making sense with this comment.

That makes sense. If the ladder frame is attached directly to the rotisserie in a straight line the weight would not be evenly distributed. Couldn't the pivot point be changed by lowering the point that the ladder frame connects? Maybe using "L" shaped attachments? That should bring the rotating part more in center between frame and body.
Has anyone done something like this or know of anyone who has? I have a small garage to work in and am trying to maximize the use of the rotisserie. Being able to remove and install body panels without fear of it bending in two is my aim.

How about this? Has anyone used a rotisserie and attached the frame and body of a TR4. Of course the doors, hood, lid, engine, trans and interior are all out. I will be using a new frame from RATCO. The old frame would be a good reference point while reparing panels.

 

[JPSmit]

I have floor pans, door sills and fenders to repair or replace.

Jeff, I just went back to this post and while I am nowhere near even a beginner with this, are you sure a rotiserrie is your best solution? I made up a rotisserie so that I could strip the bottom easily. However, my sills and floorboards were rock solid. If the issue is floor and sills, to my mind what you need is a square/ solid frome to attach the shell to. I have seen pics of a rolling square frame that the shell is literally welded to to hold everything firm till the sills & floors are replaced.

 

[Lucas63]

I have floor pans, door sills and fenders to repair or replace.

Jeff, I just went back to this post and while I am nowhere near even a beginner with this, are you sure a rotiserrie is your best solution? I made up a rotisserie so that I could strip the bottom easily. However, my sills and floorboards were rock solid. If the issue is floor and sills, to my mind what you need is a square/ solid frome to attach the shell to. I have seen pics of a rolling square frame that the shell is literally welded to to hold everything firm till the sills & floors are replaced.

That may be where I'm heading. May use the old frame as a reference and do the panel replacing and repairing of the body on that. Still may work a rotisserie into the frame. It will make other jobs easier. If I come up with something I'll post a "how to"

 

[jackq]

Hey Hap....I have to deliver a restored bug vert to Shaw AFB S.C. pretty soon...maybe I'll make a detour by and visit. After that I have to head for Cooperstown NY for a load of antiques from our house we're selling there.