Roll up window guides

[peteatgr]

I'm in the process of doing work on the internal workings of my doors, door latches, roll up mechanisms and vent windows. As I was reading in preparation for this effort I saw that it was recommended that if you're going to go inside the door to this extent it would be a good time to repalce the plastic window slides. I purchased the slides and now am having trouble figuring out how to get them installed. I have the door fully uncovered, trim and weatherstrip material removed, and the vent window structure/frame all unscrewed and loose.

Do I have to remove the entire roll up window along with the vent window frame? If so how much of the window and its tracks have to come out? Can anyone give me a simple procedure for repalcing the small six plastic window slides? And then I can get back to replacing the vent window rubber which was the purpose for opening the doors up in the first place. Oh yes, and where are the problem pitfalls if any?

Thanks.

 

[Bob_Spidell]

I haven't replaced mine in a long, long time but I don't recall any particular issues with this task. You simply, uh, 'persuade' the new slides to go where they belong, IIRC they go both on the glass on on the guide rails but, again, it's been a long time. I think the window glass and frames are loose enough to allow some play--I don't recall having to remove the window itself.

If your windows rattle--esp. when rolled down--you can eliminate the rattle by carefully pinching the sides of the slide rails with pliers (not so much that they bind the window).

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

I'm in the process of doing work on the internal workings of my doors, door latches, roll up mechanisms and vent windows. As I was reading in preparation for this effort I saw that it was recommended that if you're going to go inside the door to this extent it would be a good time to repalce the plastic window slides. I purchased the slides and now am having trouble figuring out how to get them installed. I have the door fully uncovered, trim and weatherstrip material removed, and the vent window structure/frame all unscrewed and loose.

Do I have to remove the entire roll up window along with the vent window frame? If so how much of the window and its tracks have to come out? Can anyone give me a simple procedure for repalcing the small six plastic window slides? And then I can get back to replacing the vent window rubber which was the purpose for opening the doors up in the first place. Oh yes, and where are the problem pitfalls if any?

Thanks.

I just finished replacing both Vent window rubber and window guides. The window will have to come out to do the guides. You will have to take off the vent window rubber tip and remove one of the bolts/nuts of the window stop and swing it out of the way to allow the window to travel all the way up so you can remove the window. This stop works for both up & down travel.

Once the window is out take it to a Glass shop and have them remove the window from the steel frame and install the window guides. The guides were originally installed with a thick fabric/welting of sorts but they work better glued in place with black adheisive. Note: Be sure the glass shop does not bend the metal frame and be sure they replace the rivets they have to remove to do this! Take pictures of the frame before they do work on it!! Do not let any glue get on the guides because they should be free to move a little in their metal frame.

Upon installation the window may be extra tight in the Vent assembly and not slide up and down smoothly and you should be prepared to file the guides down a little bit to properly fit them. I had to use nail emeryboards to get them to where they slide without binding. This was a slow process!! Start with coarse and finish with fine. All three edges will need to be done! Silicone spray works good for channel/guide lubrication. I took several photos of the process.

 

[peteatgr]

Patrick, a couple of questions. I've got the complete window out of the car and fully disassembled. When re-asembling the window into the window frame pieces, you repalced the window felt by gluing the window into the track? What type of glue was it? To get the slides to work in the track properly, did you just leave the window disconnectd from the lifting arm and slide the window up and down manulally in the track? Did you lubricate the rigid window track, if so was it silicone spray that worked best?

On the wing windows, I have a metal spacer attached to the wing window pivot post beneath the frame. The spacer looks like a permanent piece of the pivot post but the standard parts suppliers show it as an individual part. How do I get that spacer off the post or is there another way to get the wing window out of the frame? I'm trying to replace the wing window rubber and don't want to have to cut the rubber to accomodate the post.

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

I'm in the process of doing work on the internal workings of my doors, door latches, roll up mechanisms and vent windows. As I was reading in preparation for this effort I saw that it was recommended that if you're going to go inside the door to this extent it would be a good time to repalce the plastic window slides. I purchased the slides and now am having trouble figuring out how to get them installed. I have the door fully uncovered, trim and weatherstrip material removed, and the vent window structure/frame all unscrewed and loose.

Do I have to remove the entire roll up window along with the vent window frame? If so how much of the window and its tracks have to come out? Can anyone give me a simple procedure for repalcing the small six plastic window slides? And then I can get back to replacing the vent window rubber which was the purpose for opening the doors up in the first place. Oh yes, and where are the problem pitfalls if any?

Thanks.

You can leave the vent window frame installed while doing this job and it's the only way you'll know if you have true smooth sliding of your window up/down in the vent window frame. I measured the inside of the top of the vent window frame using a caliper and used that as a reference point when filing off the excess material from the guides. Measure the guides next! Do this first so you'll know whether or not it's even too tight! With the window out and the "stop bar" out of the way(only take out the one bolt so that it can be manually rotated out of the way, you can slide the window in the vent window frame tract to check for fit. Any clear silicane spray works for lubricating.

Patrick, a couple of questions. I've got the complete window out of the car and fully disassembled. When re-asembling the window into the window frame pieces, you repalced the window felt by gluing the window into the track? What type of glue was it? To get the slides to work in the track properly, did you just leave the window disconnectd from the lifting arm and slide the window up and down manulally in the track? Did you lubricate the rigid window track, if so was it silicone spray that worked best? The Glass shop I took the window to actually did the gluing of the window into the frame and I assume they used a black type of adheisive. Just be sure they don't get any glue on the guides because they need to float a little bit. Yes, leave the window off the lifting arm. The lifting arm actually hits the stop arm at the end of it's up or down travel. Do a full up & down check with the window crank and you'll see what I mean.

On the wing windows, I have a metal spacer attached to the wing window pivot post beneath the frame. The spacer looks like a permanent piece of the pivot post but the standard parts suppliers show it as an individual part. How do I get that spacer off the post or is there another way to get the wing window out of the frame? I'm trying to replace the wing window rubber and don't want to have to cut the rubber to accomodate the post.

I took two nuts holding the pivot piece off and then did the nut on the pivot and also the two small chrome screws on the upper vent window frame and then tapped the vent window out with a mallet. Lay the parts out in order of the way they came off so you can get them back together in the same sequence.

 

[peteatgr]

Just in the case that someone reads this thread in the future, Patrick was correct. The wing window pivot post just taps out of the spacer below the wing window frame. The spacer is a very well fit (double flat sided interior) spacer made for that shaft, and may never have been touched again since the day it was installed at the factory. It may appear to be a fixed part of the shaft but it taps off easily. With that spacer removed the wing window is free of the frame and the wing window rubber can be installed.

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

Just in the case that someone reads this thread in the future, Patrick was correct. The wing window pivot post just taps out of the spacer below the wing window frame. The spacer is a very well fit (double flat sided interior) spacer made for that shaft, and may never have been touched again since the day it was installed at the factory. It may appear to be a fixed part of the shaft but it taps off easily. With that spacer removed the wing window is free of the frame and the wing window rubber can be installed.

Good idea to do one at a time or take step by step photos like I did...actually I them one at a time and also took photos...now if I can just remember where I put them?

 

[busybrit]

I have done this job twice in the last couple of years. :fatigue: Once you get the window out you will see that the metal frame has to be taken off the glass so you can fit the nylon guides. The sides of the frame are connected/screwed together in the bottom corners, once the screws are removed each side can be pulled gently away from the glass, one side at a time. You might need to slide a razor blade between the glass and the glazing rubber. Remove the old glazing rubber strips, don't buy new glazing strips but use silcone adhesive and glue the glass into the frame. Tape the metal edging in place until the silicone is dry, about 24 hrs, re fit the rebuilt frame/glass assembly with the now new nylon blocks back into the door assembly. :congratulatory:

 

[bob hughes]

I would second the silicone worked a treat. My frame was pop riveted together easy to replace.



Bob

 

[Patrick67BJ8]

I would second the silicone worked a treat. My frame was pop riveted together easy to replace.



Bob

You're correct, they were originally pop-riveted together. It is important that there be nothing other than the plastic guides protruding out from the metal frames.