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John Moore
Luke Skywalker
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My rockers will need to be replaced at some point. I was looking at the photos in the Lindsay Porter's book and was confused as to weather the "B" post or rear fender front dogleg needs to come out.
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Rocker Replacement Question
- Thread starter John Moore
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John Moore
Luke Skywalker
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Nevermind....
I was just out inspecting mine and ... suprise! They didn't pass the magnet test. I'm sure they are full of bondo and will need to be replaced. Oh joy!
Considering I want to sort this car out mechancially before I do any serious body work, it's hard for me not to take it down to the shell and start cuttin' and gridin'. But I know if I do that, it will be a long while before she hits the road.
I was just out inspecting mine and ... suprise! They didn't pass the magnet test. I'm sure they are full of bondo and will need to be replaced. Oh joy!
Considering I want to sort this car out mechancially before I do any serious body work, it's hard for me not to take it down to the shell and start cuttin' and gridin'. But I know if I do that, it will be a long while before she hits the road.
mccalebr
Jedi Knight
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John, I certainly understand about sorting the car before beginning disassembly...might even work a little "fun" into the mix. Just don't ignore obviously dangerous issues and go and hurt yourself.
I found serious tin worm (rust) problems on my rear dog legs ("B" posts) and had to replace them. I could find "A" posts and skins from all the vendors but not the "B" posts...maybe I didn't look hard enough. Anyway, I found them quite easy to make; I did use a metal brake and bead roller, but you could get by without those tools if you had to.
There are several photos on my web site ( www.raysmg.com ); navigate to the "Spridget Project" then "Bodywork Jun-Aug"...about two thirds of the way down the page.
Here's a photo of one that I made after being tacked in but before final welding and shaping:
Hope this helps,
Ray
I found serious tin worm (rust) problems on my rear dog legs ("B" posts) and had to replace them. I could find "A" posts and skins from all the vendors but not the "B" posts...maybe I didn't look hard enough. Anyway, I found them quite easy to make; I did use a metal brake and bead roller, but you could get by without those tools if you had to.
There are several photos on my web site ( www.raysmg.com ); navigate to the "Spridget Project" then "Bodywork Jun-Aug"...about two thirds of the way down the page.
Here's a photo of one that I made after being tacked in but before final welding and shaping:
Hope this helps,
Ray
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John Moore
Luke Skywalker
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Thanks Ray!
You're feedback, site and documentation has already been a tremendous help (and I really haven't done anything but plan!)
The piece I was talking about is #33 (452-200) on P.42 of the current Moss catalog.
I know the "correct way" would be to sort the body out first. But given how busy I am these days with my new job, if I were to strip the body, I know it could be years before I get it back together. I think I would rather patch up the body, getting it running mechanically and tackle the body at a later date. My problem is, when I think of "patching" the body, it's hard for me not to want to do it the proper way.
You're feedback, site and documentation has already been a tremendous help (and I really haven't done anything but plan!)
The piece I was talking about is #33 (452-200) on P.42 of the current Moss catalog.
I know the "correct way" would be to sort the body out first. But given how busy I am these days with my new job, if I were to strip the body, I know it could be years before I get it back together. I think I would rather patch up the body, getting it running mechanically and tackle the body at a later date. My problem is, when I think of "patching" the body, it's hard for me not to want to do it the proper way.
Trevor Jessie
Yoda
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John I'm in the same situation. However, I've been able to "force myself into doing things as a bodge to get it on the road. The main structure of my car is pretty sound. The floor pans are now made from old computer cases. And some the the outer panels have had quick patches with a smear of bondo. The important thing to keep in mind is that it has to be safe AND you have to be sure that your bodges are not creating too much additional work for yourself in the future.
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John Moore
Luke Skywalker
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Trevor,
Sounds like a plan. Thanks man!
Sounds like a plan. Thanks man!
tony barnhill
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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John....All I wanted to do was replace the clutch:
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John Moore
Luke Skywalker
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tony barnhill said:
LOL! Yep... I know exactly how that happens!
tony barnhill
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
Offline
It seriously started as just a simple clutch replacement....the last time I drove it, the clutch finally gave up & would barely pull it over the lip into my garage...but when I pulled the engine, the engine compartment looked so dirty, that....jcatnite said:
Here's what it looked like before I started:
Hey John:
It's possible to replace the outer sills (rockers) without working on the dog legs if you cut them out cleanly at the point where the sill meets the dog leg. Whether that alone is worthwhile is questionable. The outer sill and a parallel piece (the inner sill) make up a box section that serves as a frame rail supporting the car with the aid of the tranny tunnel. Usually the inner sill rots along with the outer sill so you may find once the outer is off you'll need to replace parts of the inner sill. And while your at it the dogs legs will be slightly rotted but they can be purchased also. Then of course that means the floors are probably weak and ...
If the sills are still solid for the most part a quick bodge would be cut out and replace rusted through parts with new sheet metal fabbed up to fit. I'd try to get inside them through an access hole to flush out what will likely be 3 lbs of road grit all packed up inside and holding moisture everytime you go through a puddle. Then seal them off good.
When the gaps between the top of the doors and rear quarters start to close up causing the doors to bind and not close without slamming you'll know that the car is begininning to sag in the middle and the sill job can't be postponed much after that. The job isn't so tough with the engine and tranny removed and the car flipped upside down.
It's possible to replace the outer sills (rockers) without working on the dog legs if you cut them out cleanly at the point where the sill meets the dog leg. Whether that alone is worthwhile is questionable. The outer sill and a parallel piece (the inner sill) make up a box section that serves as a frame rail supporting the car with the aid of the tranny tunnel. Usually the inner sill rots along with the outer sill so you may find once the outer is off you'll need to replace parts of the inner sill. And while your at it the dogs legs will be slightly rotted but they can be purchased also. Then of course that means the floors are probably weak and ...
If the sills are still solid for the most part a quick bodge would be cut out and replace rusted through parts with new sheet metal fabbed up to fit. I'd try to get inside them through an access hole to flush out what will likely be 3 lbs of road grit all packed up inside and holding moisture everytime you go through a puddle. Then seal them off good.
When the gaps between the top of the doors and rear quarters start to close up causing the doors to bind and not close without slamming you'll know that the car is begininning to sag in the middle and the sill job can't be postponed much after that. The job isn't so tough with the engine and tranny removed and the car flipped upside down.
OP
John Moore
Luke Skywalker
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Thanks Jim.
I've noticed a few holes on my inner sills too. They will eventually be replaced as well. Right now my door gaps are just fine. I replaced my sills on my B without a rotissiery. I just braced the doors and flipped it up on it's side. Been there done that. I just want to drive my car a bit first before I tackle the body.
Here's my B, before I tackeled the sills.
I've noticed a few holes on my inner sills too. They will eventually be replaced as well. Right now my door gaps are just fine. I replaced my sills on my B without a rotissiery. I just braced the doors and flipped it up on it's side. Been there done that. I just want to drive my car a bit first before I tackle the body.
Here's my B, before I tackeled the sills.
Attachments
Whitephrog
Luke Skywalker
Offline
John
I have this piece in new metal and surplus to my needs. Can't remember if its for the left or right side. I'll check later today. If its the correct side and you are interested, its yours for $10 plus shipping.
I have this piece in new metal and surplus to my needs. Can't remember if its for the left or right side. I'll check later today. If its the correct side and you are interested, its yours for $10 plus shipping.
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John Moore
Luke Skywalker
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Whitephrog said:
I'm in! I know I'll need it someday. Send me an email or PM with the details. mgupnorth at yahoo dot com
mccalebr
Jedi Knight
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John Moore said:
OK, John...I misread your earlier post...thought you were talking about the inner piece.
As has been stated in another post just replacing the skin (#33) should be straight forward and not necessarily require cutting the sill.
On the quarter elliptic cars (Sprite Mk I & Mk II and Midget Mk I) the rear sheet metal beyond the bulkhead is more or less cosmetic, needing only to support itself as all of the suspension (car's weight) is supported by the bulkhead and associated components (spring boxes, sills, tunnel, cross member, etc.).
Ray
Yes John I see you've been there done that! Rotisseries are great, but a couple old tires without rims allows a guy to roll the vehicle over onto it's side, on the tires, and then you can pick it up, flip it the rest of the way and drop it its top. I had a roll bar on mine and it sat on the roll bar in the back and on two 3 foot 2x6's bolted to the radiator uprights. Ugly, but effective!