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Rocker pedestal - oil feed threads ?

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kch

kch

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The threads in the rocker pedestal with oil feed for the rocker shaft is gone away. I have to fix it with helicoil (or is it any other way to fix it ?), does anybody knows the dimension for the threads, for the banjo bolt oilfeed ? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thirsty.gif
I have ordered a new rocker pedestal, but still want to fix the old one.
 
KCH, If you buggered the thread in the pedestal a simple repair is not readily available.Usually this buggering is caused by not fitting the banjo loosely in the pedestal before setting the rocker shaft in place.--Cheers---Keoke /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/patriot.gif
 
I think I did this correct. The oilfeed was fitted after the pedestal was mounted on the top, fitting the oil feed a little bit on the top, and and litte bit on the of the pedestal. But I think that the threads was worn before that.
Next time I will be very careful, dont want do loose oilpressure due to bad threads in the feed, so I`ll go for a new pedestal.
 
I would be very tempted to send the whole assembly to RAS
for a 150$ rebuild. The best work I ever outsourced.
I was convinced they sent a new unit back. It was however my original with many many replaced parts including the pedestal with the buggered banjo threads.

No affiliation, financial interest disclaimer ... blah blah
 
I dont know what torqe to use, I fit new copper bushes on each side of the bolt, and turn the bolt so that the bolt presses the bushes down, and then turn a little bit more.

150 $ for a rebuilt rack seems like a good price. I bought the bushes for the rocker arms, and that will cost 35 $ alone (pluss vat and tax).
 
KCH
Rocker shaft bolt torque; 30ftLb-MAX---Keoke
 
Yeah MH67. If you have a lathe you could go that route,but using the proper careful assembly method will aviod the problem too.Further, but I do not have a ready source there are steel pedestals available for the rocker shafts.----Keoke /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif
 
Re: Rocker Pedestal Oil Feed Threads

Hello BFC,
This thread is almost 16 years old, but it is still relevant, especially to me right now. I am hoping that you all are still active.
I bought a BT7 earlier this year, and have finally gotten it back on the road. It was "restored" 30 years ago, and only has 3,000 miles since. It had been sitting for a good ten years when I bought it. I've had some great drives in the car, including some sustained 90 mph runs, and it handles quite well. However, when I cranked it recently, it was idling rough with a little bit of smoke. When I revved it I got a big puff of dark AND white smoke. I appear to be getting both oil and water in at least one cylinder. My thinking is that they probably never re-torqued the head after doing the engine work 30 yrs/3k miles ago, so I set about re-torqueing the head.
When I removed the rocker oil feed banjo bolt, there were 2-3 flights of threads with aluminum in them. The pedestal does not have many threads remaining, so I would like to replace it with either an aluminum pedestal with a steel insert or with a steel pedestal.
I recall reading someplace a while back about the steel insert in an aluminum pedestal, but cannot seem to find that reference nor the product anywhere. Denis Welch has steel pedestals, but seems they are only sold in sets; that is more than I need or want to spend at the moment.
Can anyone point me to a source, please?
Thanks in advance,
Mark

BTW: the torque variability in the 16 cylinder head nuts was significant. Hoping I do not have to replace the head gasket.
M
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Encountering the same dilemma on an engine I was rebuilding for a customer, I identified the thread type, diameter and pitch__it's a rare one__and some dark musty warehouse still had a Helicoil repair kit for it (of dozens of thread insert kits I have, this is the only one packaged in a cardboard box). If the kit included ten (10) inserts, then I probably still have 8 or 9 left!

If you want to send me your pedestal and cover the return postage, I'll repair it for you. You could consider it a Christmas present, though no guarantee you'll have it back by the 25th!

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ALWAYS, always "start" the banjo bolt into the pedestal, with the copper sealing washers, before attaching the pipe to the fitting in the head. You'll be assured of getting it in straight without it being in a bind.

BE CERTAIN that the hole in the rockershaft lines up with the oil feed hole in the pedestal before inserting the banjo bolt__do not use the bolt to correct a misalignment!

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Final tightening with a torque wrench after everything else has been assembled & torqued. On that day, I knew what that torque was, pity I didn't annotate the picture with it...

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I have in the past, particularly on engines that are expected to be operated at frequent and/or continuous high RPM, welded up the orifice in the block fitting, redrilling it for a reduced area, thus avoiding flooding the top end and starving the mains & rods of oil. Healeys were still daily drivers back in those days, I suppose they live more sheltered lives today!
 
steveg said:
Randy - beautiful pix.

Is it a BSPP (British Standard Pipe Parallel) thread?
Click to expand...
Yes! BSP 1/8-28.

I stand corrected, the size in the cardboard box is 3/8-24 Left Hand. While the BSP kit was an oddball, it is packaged in a plastic box.
 
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