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I have made some upgrades so my '77 B, i.e. overdrive, switch to twin SU's from single Stromberg. The improved performance is obvious, and I find myself pushing the car a little harder. The suspension is the next area that will have to be upgraded...I already have shocks installed in the back, but that is the only change to the original. The car "skips" on uneven road surfaces, especially on curves. The car is obviously due for a suspension overhaul, but I am wondering if I should consider specific alternatives to the original set up?
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Roadster suspension
- Thread starter RoseRoyce
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Bret
Yoda
Offline
Hey RoseRoyce,
I did a complete suspension overhaul/upgrade to my 78B not that long ago. Lowered my B about 2” in front & 1.5” in the rear using all new springs, replaced all the old worn-out bushings with upgraded polyurethane “Energy Bushings” and all new hardware. Greatly improved the handling. Check-out my web link in my signature for more details.
Anyway I’m not suggesting you do everything I did to my car but I’d at least look at the rear springs first they could be worn out like mine where. New springs are cheap at about $130 to $160 for a set. A dead giveaway to a rear spring problem is if the car seems to lean to one side or the other sitting still. Measure from the center hub of the wheel to the chrome body strip – I’ve never seen a perfect match but it should be obvious if it’s way off. I measured about an inch & a half before I started now its with-in a quarter inch.
The next thing to look at would be the bushings – mine where toast and caused all kinds of problems cornering. If the rear are that bad – I would also suggest changing the shackles & hardware. Also if the rear bushings are that bad chances are the front are in need of replacement too.
Good luck & let us know how it turns out for you?
Cheers!
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
I did a complete suspension overhaul/upgrade to my 78B not that long ago. Lowered my B about 2” in front & 1.5” in the rear using all new springs, replaced all the old worn-out bushings with upgraded polyurethane “Energy Bushings” and all new hardware. Greatly improved the handling. Check-out my web link in my signature for more details.
Anyway I’m not suggesting you do everything I did to my car but I’d at least look at the rear springs first they could be worn out like mine where. New springs are cheap at about $130 to $160 for a set. A dead giveaway to a rear spring problem is if the car seems to lean to one side or the other sitting still. Measure from the center hub of the wheel to the chrome body strip – I’ve never seen a perfect match but it should be obvious if it’s way off. I measured about an inch & a half before I started now its with-in a quarter inch.
The next thing to look at would be the bushings – mine where toast and caused all kinds of problems cornering. If the rear are that bad – I would also suggest changing the shackles & hardware. Also if the rear bushings are that bad chances are the front are in need of replacement too.
Good luck & let us know how it turns out for you?
Cheers!
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
Bret
Yoda
Offline
I really didn't think they were that cheap? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Anyway Moss sells their lowering springs in sets for between $129.95 for a 1” drop to $149.95 for a 2” drop. I picked mine up through the Little British Car Co’s (a Moss distributor) web page for a little less than that. Victoria British sell them too but I don’t know how much those are. I suggest checking them both out.
FYI Moss also sells the regular springs for $76.95 ea (~$154.00 a set). At that price you might as well consider the lowering springs I listed above. That is assuming you don’t like how high the Rubber Bumpers ride. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Cheers!
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
Anyway Moss sells their lowering springs in sets for between $129.95 for a 1” drop to $149.95 for a 2” drop. I picked mine up through the Little British Car Co’s (a Moss distributor) web page for a little less than that. Victoria British sell them too but I don’t know how much those are. I suggest checking them both out.
FYI Moss also sells the regular springs for $76.95 ea (~$154.00 a set). At that price you might as well consider the lowering springs I listed above. That is assuming you don’t like how high the Rubber Bumpers ride. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Cheers!
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
Bret,
Thanx for the advice...it seems you are right on the money. The difference in height is approx. 1", so I will invest in the suspension. My local dealer spoke of "racing" springs which are of the same strength as the OE, but keep the car lower i.e. you refer to lowering springs...I presume these are the ones...what is the difference and/or advantage between the 1" and 2" version?...other then the obvious inch!!!!
Thanx for the advice...it seems you are right on the money. The difference in height is approx. 1", so I will invest in the suspension. My local dealer spoke of "racing" springs which are of the same strength as the OE, but keep the car lower i.e. you refer to lowering springs...I presume these are the ones...what is the difference and/or advantage between the 1" and 2" version?...other then the obvious inch!!!!
Good info Bret, thanks!
But I have a chrome bumber and want the original for $83.95 each from Moss...just missed an pair on Ebay that sold for $8.49 plus shipping from FLA /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif but was wary of the shipping and the "used" part.
Any good links for tip on the the R&R of the leaf springs will be appreciated. I have a number of manuals (chilton, hayes and bentley) but one thing in particular I was wondering was a good point to support the car with jack stands while doing this job.
Bruce /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
But I have a chrome bumber and want the original for $83.95 each from Moss...just missed an pair on Ebay that sold for $8.49 plus shipping from FLA /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif but was wary of the shipping and the "used" part.
Any good links for tip on the the R&R of the leaf springs will be appreciated. I have a number of manuals (chilton, hayes and bentley) but one thing in particular I was wondering was a good point to support the car with jack stands while doing this job.
Bruce /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
Bret
Yoda
Offline
R&R of the rear springs is simply and extremely easy. But if you have a Haynes or Bentley manual the steps are pretty strait forward.
After removing the wheels I jacked up the rear of my car using a floor jack positioned under the center of the differential. Once it was raised to a good working height – I placed two jack stands right in front of the front of the two front spring mounting points on both sides. This will allow you to move the differential up & down as required to align things.
Next disconnect the shocks & rebound straps. Then remove the rear shackles first and then remove the front mounting bolt. If the bolts seem a bit hard to remove use some lubricant and allow to soak for a few minutes before trying again. Once that is done you can start pulling the U-bolts that strap the differential to the springs. Note at this point I have another smaller hydraulic jack floor jack that - I use to help hold the spring in place while disconnecting it. Once that is done you can remove & lower the springs.
On reassembly just reverse all the steps as laid out in the manual. But I suggest mounting the front of the new left springs first and then jacking up the spring into place to re-attach the u-bolts, then attach the rear shackles. Remember you might need to raise and/or lower the jack supporting the differential in order align things properly and help make re-assembly a little easier. Also I like to keep all of the hardware finger tight until everything is in place and together to avoid any binding or misalignments. Once it was all together I tightened everything down according to the manual.
Lastly take it slow when you take it out on the road for the first time. Take care to listen for anything abnormal. Funny noises, squeaks, creaking & bindings, metal on metal etc.
If it all seems fine – I recommend jacking the vehicle up after you first run and rechecking you’re work and re-tighten as needed.
Good luck!
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
After removing the wheels I jacked up the rear of my car using a floor jack positioned under the center of the differential. Once it was raised to a good working height – I placed two jack stands right in front of the front of the two front spring mounting points on both sides. This will allow you to move the differential up & down as required to align things.
Next disconnect the shocks & rebound straps. Then remove the rear shackles first and then remove the front mounting bolt. If the bolts seem a bit hard to remove use some lubricant and allow to soak for a few minutes before trying again. Once that is done you can start pulling the U-bolts that strap the differential to the springs. Note at this point I have another smaller hydraulic jack floor jack that - I use to help hold the spring in place while disconnecting it. Once that is done you can remove & lower the springs.
On reassembly just reverse all the steps as laid out in the manual. But I suggest mounting the front of the new left springs first and then jacking up the spring into place to re-attach the u-bolts, then attach the rear shackles. Remember you might need to raise and/or lower the jack supporting the differential in order align things properly and help make re-assembly a little easier. Also I like to keep all of the hardware finger tight until everything is in place and together to avoid any binding or misalignments. Once it was all together I tightened everything down according to the manual.
Lastly take it slow when you take it out on the road for the first time. Take care to listen for anything abnormal. Funny noises, squeaks, creaking & bindings, metal on metal etc.
If it all seems fine – I recommend jacking the vehicle up after you first run and rechecking you’re work and re-tighten as needed.
Good luck!
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
Bret
Yoda
Offline
Hi RoseRoyce,
Just be careful of anybody using the term “racing springs” While they might very well be the exact same as the one’s I got – depending on who they got them from, some folks use that "term" to rack up the price. If you don't mind doing the work yourself - I'd order them on-line from Moss or one of its distributors. But there are a few springs out there that are indeed used for racing that might be a bit harsh for over the road use. But I would suspect that the price of those would be a bit highter than the ones I mentioned above.
The only thing that I find kind of annoying after lowering my 78B was that I need to be a little more careful in parking lots with huge speed bumps. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif Other than that the car handles like a dream on the road. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif It’s not to harsh or too tight but firm the way I like it. Unless you are going to do some sort of competition I’d go with the 1” drop and if you think you need to go lower – buy a set of lowering blocks (Moss sells a nice block kit). That way you can always remove it if you don’t like it. Of course now you’ll need to buy a matching set of front springs. Like the rear they have a 1” & a 2” drop with higher weight ratings and that makes for a much firmer ride.
As for my setup - my B takes turns like it’s on rails. I just wish I had the power to go with that handling.
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif
Just be careful of anybody using the term “racing springs” While they might very well be the exact same as the one’s I got – depending on who they got them from, some folks use that "term" to rack up the price. If you don't mind doing the work yourself - I'd order them on-line from Moss or one of its distributors. But there are a few springs out there that are indeed used for racing that might be a bit harsh for over the road use. But I would suspect that the price of those would be a bit highter than the ones I mentioned above.
The only thing that I find kind of annoying after lowering my 78B was that I need to be a little more careful in parking lots with huge speed bumps. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif Other than that the car handles like a dream on the road. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif It’s not to harsh or too tight but firm the way I like it. Unless you are going to do some sort of competition I’d go with the 1” drop and if you think you need to go lower – buy a set of lowering blocks (Moss sells a nice block kit). That way you can always remove it if you don’t like it. Of course now you’ll need to buy a matching set of front springs. Like the rear they have a 1” & a 2” drop with higher weight ratings and that makes for a much firmer ride.
As for my setup - my B takes turns like it’s on rails. I just wish I had the power to go with that handling.
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif