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TR2/3/3A Revington's Rear Spring Location Kit?

karls59tr

Obi Wan
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"comprises 4 special washers to prevent movement of the rear springs".....anyone know where these would be fitted?????
 
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I finally contacted Revington and they replied: "the form shaped washers fit on either side of the spring between the bushes and the shackles.".....aren't they referring to the rear shackle rather than the front pin?
 
I finally contacted Revington and they replied: "the form shaped washers fit on either side of the spring between the bushes and the shackles.".....aren't they referring to the rear shackle rather than the front pin?

From the fitting instructions for RTR3059K:

"The principle purpose of this kit is to locate the front end of the rear springs. These springs have a rubber silent block bush fitted to the front eye. Without location the springs can move excessively sideways. This kit will prevent this from happening".

The instructions then go on to describe placing the 5/8 ID washer over the shank of the bolt and the 1/2 ID washer under the head of the securing nut. A bit of trimming of the silent block bush may be needed to provide the required amount of float between each washer and the spring, .010 to .020


There is also a rear shackle locating kit, perhaps they were confused.
 
I drove my TR3 for 3 miles in 2010 and then I started taking it apart. I did install this kit when I rebuilt the rear end, it was recommended along with some other mods. There is a chance that this TR3 will move under its own power again this year but I dont really have a basis for before and after comparison. I added this kit and did the other stuff because it was easy and inexpensive while the tub was off the frame.
 
Seems like a lot of people invent (and sell) fixes to non problems. If the front eye bushes are bad, change them. If good, why cut them up to add a piece.
Bob
 
I'm not convinced it is a total non-problem. The rear end does seem to move sideways a fair amount (like over 1/4") with the stock locating system; enough that my oversize tires rub the fenders in a corner but not on bumps. But I can't say how much of that is from the Silentbloc deflecting, and how much is from the springs themselves. A Watts link seems like a better solution.
 
Perhaps a Panhard rod would be easier to fabricate than a Watts link.
Certainly simpler. But a Panhard rod forces the rear end to move sideways a small amount, which seems less desirable to me. Of course the longer the rod, the less the movement, but I'm not sure how much room there is for a nice long one without modifying the body.
 
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