Returning a 75B to service

[Stewart]

I'm finally getting my 75b up and running again after sitting mostly since 97.
I flushed out the brakes and clutch system today and plan on changing the fluids in the diff and gearbox in the next day or so. I also have a radiator on order along with new hoses. Question is what would be the recommended fluid for the diff and the box. Also what would be recommended oil weight for the engine? 10w40 is currently being used.

Hopefully by next may I should be able to bring it back to glory with new paint and interior. Mechanically it seems to still be in decent shape and miracles of miracles all the electric still works except for the cig. lighter. Granted that can changer in half a hart beat.

 

[NutmegCT]

Stewart - there's a good spec list over at mgexperience:

https://www.mgbexperience.com/reference/specification.html

Lots of folks use 20W/50 motoroil for all purpose driving.

Of course, motor oil weight depends a *lot* on the type of driving you do, and local temps, etc.

Has your B been sitting outside and unused since 1997? Has the engine been turned at all? Were the cylinders prepped for storage? There may be a few things you want to do beside just changing fluids now that you're bring the baby back onto the roads.

Onward through the fog!

Tom

 

[Mickey Richaud]

Hi, Stewart, and welcome to the Forum.

For the engine and gearbox, I use 20w50. And for the rear end, I believe it should be 85-90, but stand by - someone may correct me.

For a complete menu of things to do to wake a sleeping LBC, go to Tony Barnhill's (one of our members) websiteone:

theautoist

Mickey

 

[Guest]

I agree, when you go to Tony's web site click on WEIMEROLOGY .
Bob

 

[Steve]

Good advice. 20W/50 is the manufacturer-recommended oil weight for the MGB in both engine and transmission. Do check out the information on Tony's site, that man knows MGs back to front.

 

[Stewart]

It was stored inside until last year when remodelling forced it outside. It should be back in the garage in another month or so when the landscaping will force it back in. During the time its been turned over on a somewhat regular basis but not run as the fuel pump gave up the ghost in 97. I did replace the pump last year and changed the oil and got her running again but not drivable outside of the driveway.

Right now the plan is to get it road worth again stop any further deterioration and catch up on any mechanical issues that will pop up prior to going for broke with it being striped and painted along with a new interior. If all goes well it should be legal for the street next Wednesday.

Thanks for Tony's site that helped out quite a bit and I've got a lot more to go through in the next few days.

 

[fadler1]

Looks like a fellow Californian. I just picked up a 1977 myself out of Venice Beach. I limped it down to San Diego but it is leaking oil like crazy. I replaced the filter and oil and valve cover gasket and that slowed down the leak but watch your oil pressure carefully on these things. Also, it overheats like crazy but I am getting that worked out with a new reasonable fan that runs whenever the car does. A minor investment, but well worth it. The overdrive was a trip. It would shock me. I rewired down the shifter and found frayed wires. Since I have the whole interior out of it, I have not been able to drive it fast enough to see if that fixed it. Stupid wiring down the shaft that wears out. Still trying to figure out where the oil is coming from that leaks down the filter side of the engine.

 

[John S Farrington]

I really like your experience about getting shocked by the overdrive. It encapsulates everything that is Lucas. I dont like the gearshift knob switch and converted mine to a switch on the dash such as Jaguar uses in XKs. In regard to your oil spill, check out your oil filter, oil filter housing and oil pressure gage line. It could also be coming from either your crankcase gasket or the valve cover gasket on top. I usually clean up the old oil spill and then carefully watch where the new oil emerges from. If your engine has excessive blowby, it could also come from the dip stick port. Good luck, Jack

 

[Stewart]

Fun day

Started off by rebuilding the carburettor fixed an exhaust leak between the header and the pipe changed all the hoses out installed the new radiator.
And it ran for about a minute blowing black smoke and now wont start. I figure its flooded out and I'm going to let it sit for a few hours and try again.

Does anyone know off hand what the setting should be for the needle that sits to the right of the carb?

 

[Stewart]

I should follow up on the problem that I was having with the carb if anyone runs into the same problem. Turns out the new Auto choke was the cause of the engine flooding out. For some reason with the new choke it would flood out at idle regardless of the position of the cam in the new choke or temp of the engine. Removed the new choke engine ran great when warm. I ended up cleaning up the mechanicals of the old one which was in decent shape and replaced the Water portion of the choke with the one from the new one as the original was badly corroded and the spring was broken. Car runs better than it has in at least 10 years. Took a while to figure out what was going on but the results were worth it.