TR2/3/3A Retorquing the Cylinder Head after the initial torquing.?

[mctriumph]

OR if is a freakin Tr7, (God had one & scrapped it)
Mad dog

 

[glemon]

I haven't been here in a while, but ready to jump back in. I always thought you backed off slightly because I was taught (or picked up by osmosis or whatever) that you don't get a good torque reading from a static nut.

That said, after scratching my own head a bit, I think if the goal is to make sure nothing is loose, put a wrench on it and see if it clicks. If the goal is to have as uniform as possible torque specs within standards across all nuts I would loosen and tighten back down.

Will add that in 45 years of British car ownership and lots of heads of and on with Triumphs, MGs, and Austin Healeys I have seen a lot of things break, but never had a head gasket problem. The old cast iron heads are a lot more forgiving than the modern pot metal stuff. You are probably ok doing it either way.

I will add the usual debate I see on this are is if you torque the studs dry and clean or lubed. I think ARP has information on that, but the old factory manuals, is the torque spec. for dry or lubed?

 

[karls59tr]

I haven't been here in a while, but ready to jump back in. I always thought you backed off slightly because I was taught (or picked up by osmosis or whatever) that you don't get a good torque reading from a static nut.

That said, after scratching my own head a bit, I think if the goal is to make sure nothing is loose, put a wrench on it and see if it clicks. If the goal is to have as uniform as possible torque specs within standards across all nuts I would loosen and tighten back down.

Will add that in 45 years of British car ownership and lots of heads of and on with Triumphs, MGs, and Austin Healeys I have seen a lot of things break, but never had a head gasket problem. The old cast iron heads are a lot more forgiving than the modern pot metal stuff. You are probably ok doing it either way.

I will add the usual debate I see on this are is if you torque the studs dry and clean or lubed. I think ARP has information on that, but the old factory manuals, is the torque spec. for dry or lubed?

On the British cars that you did over the years did you always torque dry? I'm assuming they were not ARP which are oiled. I too would be interested to know what the factory manual said as I am replacing the head gasket this Spring and using the stock head nuts and bolts.

 

[glemon]

Yeah, standard OEM I always torqued dry. I think there may be tables or engineering guidelines for equivalent torque between dry and lubed. I don't think most of the factory manuals specified, but been a while since I have looked.