restoring a BN2 - need advice on sheet metal

[WaltCasten]

Hello all,

I am very close to pulling the trigger on the restoration of my '56 BN2. The car needs a lot; outriggers, inner/outer sills, lower patches on all 4 fenders plus lower patches on the doors.

Pretty much all that I've heard is to use Kilmartin wherever possible but all they seem to show on their website is a complete chassis and a few other misc parts. Does anyone know what all they make and where is the best place to buy? And what about the parts they don't make?

Sorry for the "what's the best oil to use" type post.
Later,
Walt

 

[GregW]

Hi Walt,
You could contact British Car Specialists in CA. They have a Kilmartin catalog as well as a "hard to find parts" catalog.

 

[John_Progess]

Walt,
I had to do just about the same as you only more to my BJ8 and I bought all my Kilmartin parts from British Car Specialists. Hope this helps and have a good day!

John

 

[WaltCasten]

Greg/John,

Thanks for the input, I talked to them and downloaded the Kilmartin catalog and price list. It seems the prices are competitive with <span style="font-style: italic">the other guys</span> as long as they don't rape for shipping.

Walt

 

[Britishautobody]

Even the Kilmartin parts will need to be modified to fit your car, the parts we used for a hard hit 57 100-6 were of a decent fit from Kilmartin. Post a list of what parts you think you will need and people will chime in on where they have gone and where to go etc.

Cheers

 

[roscoe]

I finished doing almost the exact same jobs a few yeas ago on my '56 BN-2. I had a mix of Kilmartin parts and some no-name probably made in India or Japan parts. When it comes to wire rolled edges and proper detailing, the Kilmartin parts are probably better. As for the rest, it is probably more a function of your patience and ability to get things to fit. Every repair panel seemed like it would never fit, but little by little you work things out and come to the realization as stated above, that nothing ever fits when you start off. Both the frustration and satisfaction were immense, if you know what I mean. Perhaps the most valuable lession I learned was that there are no rules in working sheetmetal. There is almost always a way to do things working with what you have. I went from firmly believing I needed a powerhammer for stretching, shrinking and planishing to thinking "yeah, I can do that with a hammer, a dolly, some heat and some files".

 

[John Turney]

The story is that even when these cars were new, the factory had to go through stacks of parts to find the ones that fit. For example, the length of my two front fenders differ by about 3/8".

 

[GregW]

Perhaps the most valuable lession I learned was that there are no rules in working sheetmetal.

One rule I try to adhere to is "Work the metal, don't let it work you."

 

[Marvin Gruber]

Thats the reason I like metal work to wood work. I can always weld back or up a mistake. I don't ever throw away a fender or other body pieces. Cut and paste.

Marv

 

[BertVanBrande]

Hi,

for my BN2 I bought most sheetmetal parts (sills, rockers, floors, some outriggers, doglegs) directly from Kilmartin. Parts were top notch but still need minor adjustments. Larry Varley's site had a couple documents with drawings and part numbers. I called them up once and communicated mostly via email. They delivered to Southern California in a very timely manner and I saved about $600 even with shipping. Any subsequent parts I needed were ordered locally.

Generalizing I try to buy at the source, even with shipping from UK or Australia it comes out about 30-40% cheaper.

Bert

 

[kurts100]

I also went directly to Kilmartin. Saved money and everything arrived just fine from Australia. I spoke to John. His email was kas@ncable.au. That was a few years back. He emailed me his current price list. I think they are the best sheet metal parts available.

Kurt