Restoration or the scrapyard

[bigjones]

Hi folks,
This was my first LBC and I've had it for 15 yrs so I am quite attached to it.

Unfortunately, it developed a major engine problem 6 yrs ago and wouldn't run anymore. Then it got left outside under a tarp and now has major rust problems - floor boards and inner and outer sills (at the least).

I haven't the time, inclination, money, skill, equipment to do the welding but I might give it a go.
I've read a good indication of whether a MG is reasonably salvageable is the condition of the rear spring support. If that is rusted then its off to the crusher.
OK, so first things first. I've taken a (novice's) look and the support area seems free of major rust. But I'm thinking of putting the floor jack under the pumpkin and raising the car. If that goes OK, I'll carefully put jack stands under the spring supports and lower the car down. Then maybe jump up and down on the car. What do you think. Will this tell me whether or not to keep or scrap (sob).
The good news is that I have a spare 1275 engine that I believe is good.

Cheers, Adrian
PS. 1st time posting images - hope they show up and are not too big.

 

[zimmy]

....
if u have extra money and u really
love ur car....go for it.
but, if u REALLY dont have the time
or motivation id sell on ebay instead
of scrapping it.........z

 

[startech47]

You could always buy a body shell in better condition and switch your parts over.

 

[zimmy]

thats an idea.......that could quickly turn
into a full restoration! :wink: ....z

 

[tosoutherncars]

It's always, always, ALWAYS more expensive to restore one yourself than it is to buy a better example.

If you don't have the time, skills, inclination (and most importantly, space) to do major bodywork, you'd end up paying for others to do it. At which point it becomes much more expensive again.

I would suggest stripping off any useful parts (selling off what you don't need afterward, if you want to offset the costs) and then selling / scrapping the shell. Meanwhile, you can start to look around for a 'clean' example.

 

[JPSmit]

It's always, always, ALWAYS more expensive to restore one yourself than it is to buy a better example.

If you don't have the time, skills, inclination (and most importantly, space) to do major bodywork, you'd end up paying for others to do it. At which point it becomes much more expensive again.

I would suggest stripping off any useful parts (selling off what you don't need afterward, if you want to offset the costs) and then selling / scrapping the shell. Meanwhile, you can start to look around for a 'clean' example.

this is absolutely true - but, what you can't buy is your first LBC that you've owned for 15 years. I have a number of cars that I regret getting rid of. - good luck in your decision

 

[kennypinkerton]

Sills can be replaced... even if you're not exactly sure just where to get started. Just ask John Moore. His MGB restoration a few years ago blew my mind.

 

[Sopwith_Camel]

go for it
being able to say I fixed that
steve

 

[mccalebr]

JP makes a good point about hanging on to one's first car...wish I still had my '65 Midget from high school. On that point alone, I'd follow rule #1...do no harm. Selling, parting out, crushing...all are irreversible (with the possible exception of selling) as far as your first car is concerned.

Yours is a semi-elliptic rear suspension car. Some of the comments you've read about the rear spring mounts (mine included) were likely in reference to the earlier (Mk II Sprite/Mk I Midget) quarter elliptic cars where the forward mount of the abbreviated spring is in a dead-ended spring box that is integral to the rear bulkhead and notorious for rust.

I would instead look at the key structural members of your car. As mentioned, the sills (inner and outer) are structural (box beam) members but replaceable. The transmission tunnel forms another box with the bottom plate but is usually coated with oil and not too susceptible to rust. The square cross members (where your feet often rest) form a box beam when welded to the floor pan; they are available and replaceable...normally you only need to replace the outer portion. From the firewall forward, you usually have less of an issue with structural rust, again a result of the liberal oiling it receives (see, LBC oil leakage IS a feature...not a fault).

If you are not able to take on and complete a restoration presently, consider finding a place and method to insure that further deterioration of the car does not occur. There are few cars that are too far gone to save, BUT, it may not be economically feasible or desirable to do so...today. Lose that first car...you'll regret it.

If you haven't already done so, check out my "Spridget Project" at:

https://www.raysmg.com/rays_mg_midget_62_sprite.htm

You'll see a '62 Sprite that was destined for the crusher, but is coming back. Does it make sense economically...NO. Value of a decent MK II Sprite driver...$5,000...value of one with lots of goodies and an engine by Hap...$15,000...value of one saved from the crusher...priceless.

Ray

 

[glemon]

I have a cheap Harbor Freight Wire Feed Welder ($200) I have hearde people say these are no good, but I am doing significant rust work on my Triumph with it with good results, took a body course at the local community college, though it wasn't welding course I learned a lot watching someone who knew what they were doing weld, and then just kept plugging away, now am filling holes intead of blowing them out, metal as neat to work with in that you screw up you can grind it off ($20 HF angle grinder) and you trit it again.

If you have more time than money and want to keep the car go for it, though getting another with a better body is certainly a viable option, as Midgets are still relatively cheap.

Greg