TR2/3/3A Restoration advice on 59 TR3A

[TR4nut]

I'm actually making early progress with my recent 59 3A acquisition. All wings are off, engine is pulled, and I'm pondering over the body.

I've identified a few bodywork areas so far, including
driver floorpan patch or complete replacement, battery box replacement, and lower-most rear valence/wing attachment points

Questions:

Is there any specific issue with fitting the available floorpans to a pre-60K car as opposed the later square back style?

Is it better to do the major patching (floorpan/battery box) prior to any stripping? There is a local shop that does soda blasting which I'm tempted to use quickly.

Underbody, the car has a fairly intact undercoat - is it common to leave it unmolested or should I consider some stronger sandblasting for those areas?

Despite the relatively good shape of the car, the lower-most attachment points for the rear wings are shot - the captive nuts inside the valance are spinning so I will need to cut the bolts out. Anyone have a good replacement choice, such as a heavy duty nutsert or something? I don't think its worth it to open up this valance area for such an apparently simple problem.

Thanks,
Randy

 

[TexasKnucklehead]

Randy,

Sorry, I can't find the name/number for the place, but...

There's a place just off Spring Cypress down the road from me that does soda (or bead I forget?) blasting. They do not sand blast or prime. They say they cannot remove rust or bondo and that needs to be done with sandblasting. They will quote a price based on the size body/shell that will be very close to exactly what it costs, but not until they see the shell. Basically, all they want to do is strip the paint down to bare metal and give it back. My guess is that you want the rest of the body work to be done by the time you have the tub stripped.

Jerry

 

[bondo100b]

glad to hear things are going well-you and I are about the same spot-I started my tr3a 1959 frame work before I stopped 17 years ago and have one front end suspension apart and on (old ) still there so I think I will rebuild the front ends first--have replaced the rear springs--I had repainted the frame way back when so its in good shape-I am a real novice so I cant offer any answers but Im getting a lot of help from the British Motoring Club of Arkansas
Im trying to see how to get the spring back in the right side while car is off the frame (without killing myself)--think the best way so far is using two of those spring compressors that come at the spring from the outside and hook on the top and bottom of the sping but still allow you to get spring into the tower--if anyone has a better idea please let me know

thanks steve bonds north little rock bondo100b@gmail.com

 

[TR4nut]

Jerry-
I need to check local prices, but I found what I think is a pretty good shop right in Katy that is used to doing restoration work. Saw one car and it looked nice but I really haven't done the homework on comparable costs yet (very expensive vs ridiculously expensive). They do both soda blasting as well as sand for the tougher stuff.

Steve-
Do a search of this forum, you'll see the spring compressor topic pop up more than once. Safest I think is not the external compressors, but the internal threaded rod trick.

Thanks!
Randy

 

[Don Elliott]

The floor pans I bought in 1988 in England for my early 1958 TR3A restoration came with the front end of the floor pans flat - towards the front. But my early TR3A came with a turned up lip about 3/4", so I had to do that when I was welding it in.

For the late TR3A I did, the floor pans fit at the front because these later TR3As have a flat ledge which extends flat out towards the front which collects dirt etc. and leads to rusting and rotting rather quickly.

The rear end of the floor pans for my early TR3A had to have an overlap fit with the little flat bit of the original floor at the cross seam.

 

[Don Elliott]

And this is what it looks like 20 years and 100,000 miles later.

 

[martx-5]

Despite the relatively good shape of the car, the lower-most attachment points for the rear wings are shot - the captive nuts inside the valance are spinning so I will need to cut the bolts out. Anyone have a good replacement choice, such as a heavy duty nutsert or something? I don't think its worth it to open up this valance area for such an apparently simple problem.

Thanks,
Randy

I got some weld nuts form McMaster, (part number 90594A040) that I used for several places where the captive nuts were impossible to get to without major work. They get welded on from the outside and the threaded part goes inside. You'll have to drill out the existing broken parts.

 

[angelfj1]

You better hurry up and get your questions answered. According to the news (your governor) you will in the near future be part of a foreign country and then the price will go up. Boy, you sure have some nut cases down there. :crazy:

 

[rlwhitetr3b]

Careful you are very close to forbidden topic.
I have an option, but will not express it.

 

[TR4nut]

I got some weld nuts form McMaster, (part number 90594A040) that I used for several places where the captive nuts were impossible to get to without major work. They get welded on from the outside and the threaded part goes inside. You'll have to drill out the existing broken parts.

Thanks Art- I think that's the ticket for me as well. The apron looks quite sound otherwise, I think it will hold an external weld just fine.

Randy

p.s. Frank- Being Wisconsin born and bred, I think after 30 years down here the Texians are just realizing I'm here to stay - haven't heard I need to get a visa yet though!

 

[TR4nut]

Don-

I think I had you beat on your first picture, but that second one is going to be tough!

Here's my 59 with a little less adornment. Sills look really good which is a new experience for me!

Randy

 

[angelfj1]

Randy: I know that you know I was just "funning you".

 

[TR4nut]

Randy: I know that you know I was just "funning you".

Of course I do, but I have to be careful as I think my communications are being monitored!

 

[prb51]

Looks pretty good so far, panels not crunched up front. Was the original color black?
Tires sure were skinny 'in the day' weren't they.

 

[angelfj1]

then there's the increadible hulk, circa 1999.