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replacing the rubber seal on windshield

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bluemiata90

bluemiata90

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I just ordered a new rubber seal and the aluminum finisher for my tr4 windshield. I need some help with understanding, what I need to do to install the windshield seal. How do I get the rubber to cover the inside of the frame and how do I install the finisher. I've done several searches on this site, but couldn't find any information. Any help will be appreciated.
scott
 
I'm sure you'll get good instruction on the use of rope & the finisher installation tool... but here's my method: Took mine to a local windshield shop and for 40 bucks they did it all.

There are some jobs I just prefer to leave to the experienced.
 
Geo's right, there are just some things that aren't worth doing yourself.
When I bought my TR250 years ago, it had a TR4 windshield frame, but the top had the TR250 locking mechanism. The PO had drilled (chopped?) holes in the top of the frame, but it never worked right. I had the top pop open a few times after hitting bumps in the road. I found a correct frame. painted it and drove the car to a local shop where they removed the windshield without cracking it. I replaced the new frame right there in their shop and they re-installed the windshield, all in an hour and a half, and best of all, it doesn't leak.
 
Well, I won't argue with using the professionals, but I just did mine four months ago, and did it myself (and iwth my son-in-law) for two reasons: I wanted to, and the car was still inoperable with parts around my garage.

Here's my experience, and what I did:

Leave the windshield frame on the car of course. Keep the finisher off the gasket, and install that last and only last.

Soap up the gasket and fit it carefully around the glass. Soap it well. Then lift the windshield and gasket as a unit, pushing it in place from the front, of course, and "pulling" from inside the car.

That all sounds fairly easy, but it's not.

Take your shirt off, and get a huge bottle of water so you can replenish yourself as bullets of sweat pour off while you fit, push, adjust and refit the window and gasket. It will pop back out once or twice; it just will.

Since you're not an expert, I strongly recommend two people. One to watch the fit and help push and adjust, and another to sit inside the car and "pull" the gasket lip around the frame.

Some people recommend tools, screwdrivers, and bent hacksaw blades. I'd use my bare hands, and warm soap and water, and strongly recommend no tools except dull plastic pieces to help when absolutely necessary.

What I discovered is that patience is everything. Tiny little bits of gasket lip unfolded back over the inside of the frame--1/4 inch every 30 seconds in some cases. Not to be dramatic, but it took a lot of strength in some cases, and that primarily came from my son-in-law who made me look like bad, and kept scoffing at my wiggly, pathetic little self.

At one point I broke down and grabbed a screwdriver, and then managed quickly to nick the rubber. My son-in-law pushed me aside the curled the gasket in place with his bare hands.

When it finally went in, we'd both been at it for about an hour and a half, and did everything but cry along the way. I know others will cringe, and, yes, a professional could've done it much faster, but we've now got the memories. And it looks good.

Good luck.
 
Scary, but with lots of dumb luck, I installed mine with the rope trick in less than 20 minutes. I just pulled and realized there was no turning back, it just popped right in.
Nothing since has gone that well.

Bill
 
When the gasket on the TR4a that has been in the family since new started to leak, I decided it would also be a good time to get new glass since the original has started to be difficult to see through due to 30 years of road debris hitting it. At that time a still had comprehensive insurance on it, so I asked my agent if insurance would cover the new glass. He said no, stating that to be covered the incident must be "sudden and unexpected". 30 years of debris fogging the glass didn't count as sudden.

Because of this, and since I was short on funds, I decided to replace the gasket and reuse the old glass. I was doing the work myself without the advice of a forum like this to give guidance. After about 1 1/2 hours of struggling, I was 90% complete and heard the feared "sudden and unexpected" crack of the glass. I called the insurance agent back and they paid a professional to try it again - this time with new glass.

I strongly recommend using a glass shop for this job.

But I do have one question - anyone ever figure out how to get the chrome trim ring to not shrink to the point that it leaves a couple inch gap where the connector is supposed to cover it up. The original one had a large gap in it by the time I replaced it - and the new one installed several years ago has also shrunk leaving a large gap.
 
So far, I see the consenses is, use a professional, that may be the way to go, but I've always been adventurese, so I might try it myself. I want to thank everyone for their advise and I'll let you know what happens.
 
Hi,

It's been a while since I last installed a windshield. But I can tell you I used dish soap and the "rope trick" and it went in pretty easily. A second set of hands on the outside is essential.

Be sure to go back and seal it properly so that water doesn't work it's way in and eventually rust out the frame.

Yes, the silver finisher strip goes in last to spread the gasket and "lock" both the glass and the gasket in place. All the replacement finisher strips I've seen are plastic. The originals were aluminum, but have been unavailable for many years, as far as I know.

Unfortunately the plastic type shrinks over time, so cut it extra long and it will be good for a while, but eventually will need to be renewed.

Cheers!

Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif.
'62 TR4 CT17602L
 
Geez KentvilleH... can't decide if that was testimony to the joy of doing it yourself or proof positive that it should be hired out. Either way, great tale.

FWIW, I had the glass out and the frame off the car when I had mine done so I just dropped the frame, glass and trim at the shop and they did it on a BIG workbench. No way anyone should try this with the frame off the car, even they said it wasn't easy that way.

And yes, my trim bit has shrunken badly over the 5 years since and that little finisher piece only comes in one size (I checked). Next time I will have them leave excess and only trim it after a summer of Tucson sun has worked on it.
 
A few questions worth asking after all this:

1) How should the window be sealed when it's all done? Black silicone sealer?

2) How thick should the rope be when rope is used to pull the gasket lip back though the frame (and should it wrap the entire frame)?
 
1) I didn't seal mine (peek underneath occasionally and is always clean) but can use silicon. Avoid butyl rubber, you will never get the darn thing off.
2) Clothesline

Bill
 
Kent,

That was a very good description of the event. I did the one on my TR4A and I must say it was about the same events as you. Only I did it on the kitchen table, which may have made it more difficoult given how hard one must push. I did try the rope trick, but that was not that helpful (but now reading someone say they used a clothesline makes me think I had the wrong rope.

I too had to enlist a helper, but in my case it was my wife, which might have made your "take your shirt off" suggestion a bit problematic.

All in all I would say it is worth doing yourself. At least you will be sure the paint has not been scratched under the rubber.
 
Regarding the trim piece - is it hard to R&R? I was thinking about replacing mine simply because it is faded. Reading this post tells me that replacing the windscreen seal is a tough job, but I'm not so sure about the trim piece itself.
 
If I remember well, the trim piece was a piece of cake.
 
O.K. I decided to let the professionals install the window seal, but what to my surprise, I got turned down by 3 smaller window installers. They stated they won't even attempt it. Then I found the winner, a very large, well known glass installer on the southside of Chicago. "No problem they said, starting at $225.00 for the install, it's a very nasty job". Needless to say, I said "NO". Does anyone know of a glass installer in the Chicago area, hopefully on the southside that will install the window trim at a reasonable price. Earlier in the post someone mentioned they paid $40.00. I'd love that price.
 
[ QUOTE ]
...Then I found the winner, a very large, well known glass installer on the southside of Chicago. "No problem they said, starting at $225.00 for the install, it's a very nasty job". Needless to say, I said "NO". Does anyone know of a glass installer in the Chicago area, hopefully on the southside that will install the window trim at a reasonable price. Earlier in the post someone mentioned they paid $40.00. I'd love that price.

[/ QUOTE ]Wow. $225 or more? it's a NASTY job? Methinks they really DON'T want to do it. They must not have anyone on staff who remembers how, since most windshields are "glued in" nowadays.

I've done this "at home" many times over the years, most recently with a Herald sedan back window (same procedure) and the help of my then-12-year-old son. I don't have it handy, but the procedure outlined in the factory workshop manual is simple. All you really need is the right cord (something like lawn mower pull-start cord). A large rubber mallet helps, but often the same effect is acheived with no more than the heel of a strong hand.

For $225, you can afford to practice! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
Something that should have been adressed is that there are a LOT of terrible re-pro seals on the market. If you get one that doesnt look like the old one, guess what ?? its trouble.
Dont use silicone, a windshield shop will have a liquid sealer that is injected last.(if needed they will often self seal)
The rope MUST be 1/4 in cotton , smaller dia cord may tear the new ruber(cotton holds the position better)
MD(mad dog)
 
Did it years ago on rear VW window. Had no choice but to try at the time. I put pressure on the outside while my wife was inside pulling the 1/4" cotton cord. Took only a few minutes.
 
I was very fortunate to find a retired glass installer that said he'd do it for next to nothing in 10 minutes. He lied, it took him 15 minutes and it went in perfect. He even installed the chome trim piece and it looks great. He did use the rope trick for the window, but had some special tool for the trim piece to get it started. Now that I've seen how it's done, I have no doubt that I could have done it myself, it my have taken be me an hour or 2, but I could have done it. Anyways, thanks for all the input.
scott
 
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