replacing rocker panels

[PikeMGB74]

i just recently bought a '74 mgb and everything is in good condition except for semi-rusted floorboards and the driver side rocker panel is rusted through and needs to be replaced. The necessary parts have been ordered and i wanted to know the basic procedure and maybe a few tips on how to go about removal of the old panel and replacing it with the new one.

 

[Tom Rynne]

Your best bet is getting Lindsay Porter's book which illustrates the procedure. I have done this now on half dozen B's and I sometimes forget how daunting that first one was!
One thing Porter doesn't address is maintaining the door opening as the body will flex when the rockers are cut away-particularly the verticle inside member.I now weld a brace in across the top of the door opening before I start to remove the rockers and only work on one side at a time.
I have a long chisel made from 1/2 of a tapered rear spring leaf which is invaluable in cutting thru the spot welds and around the castle section.
Read and follow the Porter book and any specific areas we can help with, let the board know.

 

[Guest]

Tom, I'm gonna do my floorboards next week, do I have to support the floors in any special way? btw, the body is stripped except for the suspension

 

[adam90009]

i wouldnt think so, its not really a structual part of the car

 

[tony barnhill]

Chuck - so long as the sills are solid, I've not braced the door...but, Tom's right, if the sills are weak or you're working to replace them or the rockers, brace the door!

 

[Tom Rynne]

Chuck, no bracing for the floor job but ONLY if the sills,as Tony says,are sound. A good test is to jack up one side of the car on the forward hanger of the rear spring, just a bit off the ground. If the sills are weak you will see noticeable narrowing of the rear door gap. If they are shot the door won't close!
I have a zip file I got a while ago which has a device for jacking and compressing the door opening which would be the absolute ideal way to handle that phase of a rocker job especially if the chassis has sagged from rocker rot.
I can email it if you want it.

 

[Guest]

the sills are good, remember Tony you sold me the car

and I'm only gonna cut out 1 side at a time

[ 03-30-2004: Message edited by: Chuck Cougill ]</p>

 

[tony barnhill]

Well, I've whacked many a floor where the sills & tranny tunnel are solid without bracing doors - but 1 side at a time!

 

[Guest]

that's the plan, I figure one Monday and one Tuesday

 

[tony barnhill]

<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>that's the plan, I figure one Monday and one Tuesday<hr></blockquote>

You've not done this before, have you chuck? One will begin on Monday & you should be finished by the next Monday so you can begin the second one Tuesday! Oh, order several of the Eastwood spot weld drill bits so you can save time by drilling them out!

 

[adam90009]

never plan on how long something will take. it will always be about 10-11 times longer than what you expected

 

[Guest]

I have an idea which shouold save some time, I'll let you know if it works out. Remember Tony, I'm gonna glue them in

 

[tony barnhill]

Yeah, chuck, but there are hundreds of spot welds to break loose & then grind clean...hundreds!

 

[JoeTKohler]

I rivited on my replacement rocker panels with pop rivits on both my MGA and MGB instead of spot welding them. I also have rivited in floor pan replacment sections. While this will not make the grade for a "concours" car it is easy, doesn't warp any panels, lets you get it in position correctly with a few rivits (and change the position if you don't get it right), and I am sure it is plenty strong. I use a rivit every inch or two. They are pretty much completely hidden to all but the most scrupulous eye.