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MGB Replacing MGB dash

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BobS76

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I would like some information. I am planning to replace the dash on my 1979 MGB. Time has taken its toll. I received an e-mail from Moss, but the author (Moss tech) and the enclosed instruction set left some questions in my mind. Hopefully, some one in this forum has done this before.

I am planning to use the Moss dash panel cover, p/n 453-795. First of all, how does the dash cover come from Moss - is it just a new vinyl skin that is applied over my existing foam core (after removing the old skin)? If so, the what is involved in removing the old skin - is it bonded to the old foam core, or does it just lift off after cutting the sealed edges?

I just don't want to order a $400 part only to find that I am in over my head.

Any help would be appreciated. If I am repeating a previously asked question, then I appologize. It is just that I don't seem to have success with thr search engine.

Bob
 
I dont know about the later models but on the 72 to 76 dash the new pad required you to strip the dash down to the metal base and the new cover was glued directly to that. However there was a section around the vents that was a hard foam that you did not remove and have to carefully work around.

Doing a dash pad is a real pita project but when its done it's so worth it.
 
Thanks. I am hoping from someone who has worked on the later maodel, but I think this might help some. I looks like the earlier model is also a 'padded' dash, with a foam core, based on the Moss illustrations. Is that correct? If so, maybe the replacement is similar, and won't be an impossible job. I am expecting that the finished job will look good. Years ago, I used the dash top cover and the result was very good for the cracking I had at that time.

Bob
 
Bob, I've done a 72 dash and the main thing I can say is, after the old cover and foam is removed, clean the steel throughly and then dry fit and re fit as many times as it takes to get it perfect. Some foam might have to be sanded or shaved off the new cover, they don't usually come out of the box and glue right on. Make sure it's not too thick around the switch holes, try and match the original thickness. That being said and your ready to glue it in place, contact cement on both pieces works very well. I use contractors plastic sheeting cut in 6 inch wide strips laid cross ways to keep the cement separated and then when in position, pull one strip out at a time, making sure nothing moves. Once the two halves touch, it's all over. Good luck! PJ
 
I would like to add that when I did the '73 dash I used a hair blow-drier to heat the old vinyl, soften the old glue and carefully peal it off. This allowed me to get just the vinyl off and then carefully take just the thin layer of soft foam off of the hard foam that MUST stay on the metal base.

When ready to put the new face on I would suggest you have all the gauges, switches, air vents and glovebox parts ready to install and use them to hold the foam in place and to the base while the glue is setting. Cut only a minimum amount from each hole to get these items in place.
On this earlier style (1968 - 1975?) you must be very carefull when cutting the switch hole at the right side of the instrument cluster. The extra vinyl must be folded over the right side of the hole to prevent the vinyl from pulling away from the hole and exposing the foam or base.
The later dash may have a similar problem spot.

I used a Weldwood brand of "Non-flammable" contact cement. It is supposed to be more compatible with foam.

Good Luck and don't get in too much of a hurry.

C Ya,
Mark
 
As stated above. I have do a few. I have had the best results by glueing small areas at a time. Use many clamps, but place a backer of card board on the pad side...this will prevent indents from the clamps. Be sure that the glue that you use is new, as glue does have a shelf life.
Best of luck and take you time!
 
Has anyone used "Plumbers Goop" for something like this? I get it at Ace Hardware. It is pretty tacky, holds plastic stuff without discoloring/melting or melting the plastic, and if you have to separate the pieces, you can. There is some work time with it.

I'll be replacing a dash, too. I would like something that gives me time to fix my mistakes.
 
You need an adheasive that hardends and does not remain "Tacky". There is little room for error, as once you cut out switch holes, etc. any movement will make a sloopy job.
 
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